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This did throw up a lot of results 15"x48" or 381mmx1220mm BUT all are white melamine or shelves as part of shelving unit. All very expensive.

No joy with "loft boards" either. I can get 600x2400 through my hatch. At this rate I will probably have to cut one of the larger ones down. Just seems odd this older size would just vanish.

In my loft there are many 380x1220 interlocking chipboard flooring. No identifiying marks. I would like to replace and add some. Problem is, I can only find either 320 or 600 wide! What happened to the 380 stock? I really don't want to have to cut a 22cm strip off of a 600x2400 board... Bester

Something like this?

It goes upto the ridge but only the deflection head is fixed. It allows for roof movement so the wall doesn't accidentally become load bearing but the wall isn't actually attached to the ridge...

It is to separate an open loft from my neighbour. He agrees. The plan is: Mortar layer on the existing party wall (exposed brick visible joist level) Treated timber sole plate (nail/screw as post suggests) Timber foot. Metal frame (non-load bearing/deflected) Fire boarded. Insulated. Only need...

Hi DIYnot, I am putting down a soleplate for a partition on top of a brick wall. All guides say if it cannot be strapped down to drive in masonry nails instead, that's fine. However, all the masonry nails I can buy are 3.4mm thick and all the masonry bits are either 3mm or 4mm. I'm worried if...

I did wonder this. I wasn't sure how easily it would bend. Ignoring that 5-degree error would be the easiest solution.

That's an excellent point about the rafter line, I hadn't consdiered that... it probably would be wonky and after all that effort too. I like that. Noggins first and last to get it dead straight then stagger them as I go. I think this wins out. Now to make some noggins 72mm by x by x...

No, it is solely for the top track. As its the roof it needs to be a "deflection track". That means the vertical studs and plasterboard are not attached to the top track so that the wall can't accidentally become load bearing if the roof shifted, say for example if it snowed.

I have the same issue but my angled rafters are at 40-degree pitch. I was going to use tilt fillet/arris rail but they are all 45⁰ and it shows. Noone near me wants to cut down the profile to 40⁰ for me... Any suggestions?

I have the same issue except my sloping ceiling is 40 degree angle. What method is best to shave down a 45 degree fillet/arris to the required 40?

I honestly thought a tilt fillet would be the easiest thing. I could even attach top plate to it to make sure it was straight. Noggins is possible but more cuts and it'll be harder to keep it straight. I do wonder what stud & track guys do in this situation.

It is for a partition wall in the loft made from metal stud and track. The top track runs perpendicular to the rafters at an angle (40-degree) offset from ridge sadly. This timber (marked red) is to give the top plate a flat surface to attach to, cancel out the slope of the rafters.

Not terribly. Can be rough sawn. 73mm base and 40-degree angle are most important. This rounds out to be about 62mm on the side and 95mm on the hippopotenuse, some tolerance there.

Yeah sounds that way. I was quite shocked by the apathy over the phone. Having said that, I've just rung Lawsons and the chap there suggested electric planer. You've suggested table saw. So I think between the two I can cobble something together at the fraction of the cost of the joinery...

I tried that with the one that sells this piece but they said the machines can't/won't be recalibrated for small job. Asked a few others, no response. Tried a joinery and got the eye watering quote and even then it would be shorter than I need.

I need a long (5.1m) length of tilt/fillet or arris rail BUT with a 40-degree angle. I found this and it was pretty close, I am considering purchasing a tool to do the job myself because the carpenters I approached don't seem interested and the quote I recieved was twice the price of the entire...

Useally I am the same, but I want to interfere with the existing timbers as little as possible. I redone my diagram to show more: White is exisiting structure, Blue is the metal stud wall and Red the proposed noggins. There is a Tie (now pictured) across where the wall would go. I can build...

There is a purlin (not pictured I realise) its about chest height is that not doing that job above as you've drawn?