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I've got a Siemens TRV, numbered 1-5, I just didn't know that it slowly closes as the room temp reaches the set number. I'm saying this because the rest of the radiators that I set them to say, 2 just heat up less. So I guess it kind of works like a manual tap in the sense that the radiator...

I mean it is bring heated, just not sufficiently, so I guess you're right. I thought manual TRVs just adjust the amount of hotnwater circulating in the radiator, no?

My ensuite bathroom has 2 external double brick walls and a large window. Naturally, in the winter, it's the coldest room in the flat by around 5 degrees, and very humid. It's also the only room with a single radiator, everywhere else it's a double. I can manage the heating of the entire flat...

This should be it! He provided a lot of stuff from Hafele, so this should be it. Many thanks!

My joiner left a wardrobe project unfinished. He had said that he was going to put supporting rods behind the wardrobe doors, which are basically three 3m tall sliding doors. I haven't found on google something that classifies as a wooden panel supporting rod, I don't know if he had something...

Thanks. You mean like having an external wire that'll connect the timer and the fused switch? I have a toddler around and this may not be the best solution. I wonder, can I replace the switch altogether with a timer switch? I do find some stuff on the internet, but not sure if they work in my case.

Precisely, the switch is outside the bathroom. Do you mind sharing a link to one, as I don't know what to search for? Do I add this, in addition to the existing switch? How about a timer switch though? Is that possible?

Can I have a thermostat attached to this radiator, or even a timer switch to replace the socket with? I'm looking for a better solution than the on/off switch. My bathroom is constantly cold and I want to have some control over how much electricity I'm using...

He came back saying: Visual inspection showed the board was labeled incorrectly and there were over sized and under sized breakers for the circuits wired.

What's wrong with a mix of BG and Contactum though? Surely both of them do the same thing.

Good call, thanks.

Thanks for your detailed comment. I get it that "anyone can do an EICR", however my problem is that I'm now found in the middle, with an electrician claiming that the current installation is non-compliant (I don't know whether that qualifies as potentially hazardous, I take it from your comment...

Bumping this thread with an updated pic of my electricity board and relevant wiring. Off the bat, I see that the labeling is wrong: there's no water heater (GCH) and no electric shower either, not to mention the stickers are offset.

Allegedly qualified electricians (contractors).

Many thanks for taking the time to write all that up! My question now is, what can I do with these docs, if they're proven to be carelessly filled out / wrong? Can I go after the electricians in some way? Is there any point in even doing so? And what do I have to look out for next time I hire...

I'll post back with a better quality pic when I visit the property next time, thanks all for your so far input!

Yes, exactly that. I just replied to a comment above.

There's no immersion heater anymore, as the shower is now connected to the boiler.

Correct, the blurry is the new one, the other is the old CU.

The blurry one is the newer one, sorry about the confusion!