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I heard a public info ad recently saying that if the hot water is too hot to bear when washing hands, the thermostat is set too high. This applies to me, despite my ACL HTS2 thermostat being turned fully counterclockwise. I'm assuming a problem with the thermostat, installed 1987. Is this a...

Thanks, @Harry Bloomfield but mine is a GR480. My worst case scenario will be to remove the alarm and replace it. I'll get this done by a professional installer. I don't want to do this until I've completely exhausted the search for a compatible, replacement siren.

Many thanks @Old Salt for taking the time to reply. The siren is fitted to an old Ford, not the Spitfire. That said, I've already posted the same question on the TSSC forum. Normally, there's a wealth of knowledge and experience freely shared on that platform but, regretfully, a 25 year old...

I have a Serpi Star cat 1 alarm system which was fitted almost 25 years ago. The car spends most of its life in a garage and hibernates over winter. Unsurprisingly, the siren battery backup is dead. The rest of the alarm works just fine. I've tried to split the alarm with the intention to...

Good call! I've lived here for 35 years, urban south Manchester, and never experienced a frozen pipe before. This cold snap has been prolonged and bitter. All working fine again now that the mercury has risen.

Thanks again, @martygturner Same issue again this morning but this time several turns of the valve hot to cold hasn't succeeding in giving cold water flow. The pump is a Salamder. From experience, where should I start? I'll look for a (filter) blockage at the shower control valve and at the...

Thank you. Is there an easy way to determine if it's the valve or the pump?

This morning, the shower pump would not start when turning the flow valve, left side in the picture. Turning the temp control, right side in the picture, it started but only hot water. Turning the temp down, the shower pump stopped again. After a bit of rotary agitation, full cold, full hot...

House was built in 1987 and still has the originally installed conventional boiler and central heating system. A good few years ago I replaced the electrical half of the Honeywell 3-position valve. I now have the same symptoms and think it appropriate to replace the complete valve. Cold water...

That's helpful, thank you. So, the roomstat is feeling chilly so it sends a signal to circulate water around the system. Separately, the water temp is measured and controlled by the boilerstat. As soon as the roomstat has warmed, it sends another signal to stop circulating the water. Now it...

Thank you. Only one port, pump, is valved, the other two are not.

Thanks, Chris, Not sure that I fully understand the role of the room thermostat. I've since "worked" the motorised valve around 20 times and radiator temperature now appears to be responding to room thermostat position once more. The water tank thermostat is the originally fitted ACL HTS2. It...

I have a conventional hot water and central heating system, installed in 1987 when the house was built. The radiators appear hotter than the thermostat would suggest. There is no response to turning the thermostat down. The thermostat, mounted in the hall, clicks on and off when rotated, as...

I'm non the wiser, Harry. The RCB covering 5 MCB circuits, including the cooker, trips. most probably due to steam/water/condensation from above. It will reset and supply current to the oven clock but if I try to use the oven it will trip again. Wait overnight and all will be well. Thanks...

Ah, I see your point. I've just switched-off the MCB to the cooker. The gas hob ignition and overhead light and extractor still work.

No. There is a large red switch on the wall marked "cooker" and this only turns the oven on and off. With it switched off, the gas hob ignition, canopy light and extractor all continue to work. The CU trips when cooking with gas only. Although it is powered (clock displaying), the oven is...

Thanks, FrodoOne, for taking the time to clearly explain the innards of my consumer unit. The house was built in the 1980s and the consumer unit was only changed to the one pictured within the last 5 years. To my relatively poor understanding of electricity, I haven't as yet understood the...

I believe that it is steam/condensation/splash water arising from cooking with gas. In each case of tripping the consumer unit, the oven has never been in use, always cold.

Yes, the kitchen is vented and the gas hob has an overhead canopy with light, filter and extractor. Nevertheless, when cooking, there's plenty of steam/condensation and even a bit of boiling-over-the-saucepan so plenty of water........some of which is causing my problem, I think.

The gas hob plinth looks to be sealed around the marble worktop......although I'm thinking that there is a leak path, hence the issue. It's tripped about 4-5 times in the last 6 months. Prior to last night, it tripped while cooking (with gas). Last night, somewhat bizarrely, it tripped at...