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Ps Do not inject anything. That will not work. We had that here, previous owner must have fallen for it. Horrible stuff. The walls were still damp until the cement was gone.

Hi will, Firstly that humidity meter is not suitable for measuring moisture in brick. It actually thinks salts on the bricks are moisture. my opinion, those old bricks need to breathe. Your house has inappropriate cement pointing. This should really be lime mortar for those bricks I would...

none externally. But SF19+ internally for a "duet" install I think they called it.

It ends. And a breather membrane only (the black stuff) picks up the water, onto the sarking board then over the eaves trays....

plate? The picture shows the eaves trays off. the original roof had some sort of sprocket kick at the bottom. originally i reinstated this kick, only to realise the tiles should be as flat as possible so Just adjusting the tilting fillet height then the eaves trays will be back on.

plan is to use code 4 lead. but with the 20mm boards i have currently. it leaves no room (height) for a fillet or welt to contain the water in the valley. (i am not a roofer) I am wondering whether running a wider valley width will contain the water flow without much welt or fillet.

Superfoil sf40bb. no my roofer was incapable of installing the superfoil, so he has gone. I am just cracking on for now. I am a capable diy'er.

Can anyone recommend how to build up a lead valley on a warm roof? The roof is to be slated with 20" x 10" spanish slate. Tile battens are to be 25 x 50mm Photo of my roof attached. (eaves trays were momentarily off when the photo was taken.) options seem to be: Fit the valley boards flush...

doorbell perhaps. looks like a bell wire.

This fireplace i did looked very much like yours about a year ago. note the steel lintel. (Keep that it's structural) ps have you spotted your old servant bell wires, (the random pipe dropping through the plaster)

I don't understand what you mean by the vertical line of bricks above the arch. Do not touch the arch or anything above the arch without adequate support. it will be hard work to clean those bricks to get them good enough to leave them exposed. When laid they were never intended to be face...

Bash it all out, you can go back to the original brick arch with a hammer. no building control required. the original fireplace has not been messed with (or toothed in), you can very easily just knock out all the additions. i have done 3 of these in our house. it is lime built so should come...

I am 2 years into renovating a damp house. We did have a leaky roof, but in my opinion the single biggest cause of our damp was inappropriate use of cement. firstly try and find a roofer that isn't a cowboy and get them to check the roof / gutters. but if it was me i would hack off all that...

It cracked because it was repointed in cement and not lime... & can't breathe. rake that cement out and get some nice breathable lime in there. If you continue to repoint in cement expect to see this happening elsewhere.

https://www.hertfordshirebc.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Fire-Resistance-of-Floors-with-Lathe-and-Plaster-Ceilings-Dec-2013.pdf In this article, it makes reference to a competent persons report, it suggests it should be a fire specialist. But doesn’t seem to say it has to be. Nobody know...

Already mandatory in wales I saw!

My understanding is that this is in addition to the early Detection fire alarm system. I am deliberately trying to avoid a sprinkler system as IMO this is overkill for a domestic residence. And the costs are absurd. Particularly as our water pressure isn’t high enough to run it so would...

I should add I feel the L & P would hold up quite well in a fire. It is 1” thick plaster and in excellent condition for the age. We are taking another wall down elsewhere and I’m tempted for my own curiosity more than anything to hit it with my blow torch first to see how it behaves. I wonder...

yes this is the company I had seen. Maybe I will compile an email and send it across to the LBC. appreciate everyone’s responses. many thanks Dan

Thank you for the replies everybody. Yes we need a protected stairwell, but LBC have also insisted we upgrade the fire resistance on the first floor. Our new 2nd floor (loft) is easy as there are no floorboards laid. So I will install the rock wool flexi (1 hr protection apparently) between...