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Thanks - but when you say in line with the flow of water, doesn't that mean the position shown is fully closed? I've just seen a video of a guy isolating to drain the boiler down and he turned the slot to the position shown. In any case this suggests mine is halfway between the two - odd as the...

Sorry to raise yet another question on this topic but have read many of the threads and searched elsewhere without getting anywhere. I'm not sure if I've ever got the loop to work properly in the couple of years we've been here but on the last couple of occasions when I've done 'major' work...

Hi, We have a detached chalet bungalow 14m wide, which had a 4m rear/side extension many years ago (joined to one rear corner). We applied for a LDC to extend to the back of the house roughly from the centre line to encompass the existing badly built extension, refused due to new+old being more...

Hi, I'm soon to embark on a single storey rear extension project, which is essentially upgrading an existing ~40m2 extension that's been added to and upgraded several times since it was built some 50 years ago (none of them by me). Original drawings depict a single uninsulated slab 150mm (no...

Sorry if this has ended up hijacking martysmarty's original question but it's very enlightening! :) I don't want to sound like I'm rubbishing my plan man but I'm sure he'd admit he's no architect, however has many years of building experience and hopefully uses that practical knowledge when...

Agreed - easy to order and put in yourself, no need for a specialist if you can still see the top of the cavity. I did this for an elderly neighbour when I discovered their 'Pro' installed insulation beads (many years ago) were about 2-3ft short of the top of the bungalow cavity. Just cut the...

I've no doubt you're right Woody, so I suppose the ideal is to find a designer who has the future builder's (and ultimately client's) best interests in mind, in a practical sense, and we as clients have very little chance of knowing who is going to be good at doing that. And if they're that good...

Thanks for the replies guys - so I now have the added comfort of thinking I might have paid a SE good money for something that might not have been required, and might indeed be impractical or more expensive to build, D'oh! :) This was exactly why I tried to talk to some builders beforehand about...

I'm in a similar situ myself - have plans for a single storey flat roof extension with approx 7m external opening for sliding doors; SE has spec'd the same UC 203*203*46 as OP which is obviously way short of the approx 300mm cavity. There's 'nothing' (brick-wise) above this so it's only taking...

Thanks for the reply. Yes definitely don't want to touch the inside - the door frame (old and new) sits fully in the outer leaf so hopefully just concerns that. I did consider just trying it but the porch that comes off this likely has timbers sitting on top of those couple of courses, approx 2m...

Hi, Been in this early 60's chalet bungalow about a year and I'm looking to replace the doors and many windows. The original windows (Crittall, in wooden frames I believe) have previously been replaced with uPVC around 25 years ago, and with various cracks & deflection of frames I have doubts of...