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Thanks guys I will whip the other ones off tonight and send a picture across.

I found the name of it finally; Lutron Rania. Discontinued now. Here are the wiring instructions. Can you make sense of any of this: https://assets.lutron.com/a/documents/048235a%20(2).pdf In the kitcehn I have 4 of these. I wanted to change all of them. Two control half the kitchen spot light...

Also, why are they called L and 1? Never seen this once on switch faceplate?

Yes, sorry should have said; it’s a 2 way switch. With it being 2 way the weird symbol goes into the comm on new plate then L and 1 go into L1 and L2 and doesn’t match which way round? Thanks

Dear forum, I want to change the faceplate of this push button Lutron dimmer switch to a standard. I am unfamiliar with the lettering/symbols of the current one: So it has L, 1 and a symbol which I know is the comm symbol (live feed). The one I want to swap it for has what every other...

Sorted and all working. Thanks for all your help.

After I have finished the down-lights I have a wall light to change in the same room and would appreciate some advice. The current wall light has a large recess to house the junction box. Unfortunately the new one doesn’t and it’s going against a brick wall: This recess is only 3-4mm on this...

Can you pull one out and take a photo? I measured the exposed blue lengths around 10mm for a reference so maybe the brown ones need stripping back a bit? Ah yes they are push fit! Much easier now! I thought they were inserted when the lever was pressed down. The only junction boxes I have...

Yeh sure I’ll take it back apart and post a picture shortly; better to be safe than sorry. Is there a junction box that’s very similar but you have 6 screws for the 6 wires instead of three levers? Would be so much easier if you could secure each wire as you go along. With one lever...

I’ve bought the terminal box you suggested. I connected the female box to the cables in the ceiling as they have two clamps for the two sets of cable cores: I then used a short piece of two core for between the male box and the fitting: It all works. Does that all look ok? The only concern...

Forgot to ask; with the earth wire should I just cut it shorty and put electrical tape over the bare end or secure it to a single terminal wago box or does it not matter which? Thanks

Awesome, thank you. I’ve just been spending half an hour trying to get two lives into the new fitting with no luck so will do as you suggested! That’s interesting that the current setup is really out of date and no very compliant. So much more involved to do it that way as well. Thanks!

Now having had a good look inside the fitting hole there isn’t really another end. That earthed plate is just an extension of a larger plate that houses the cables for that fitting: This now would be important to keep looking at the housing; if the brown wire up on the main bit of the plate...

Sorry didn’t explain it well. This metal bar with the earth that I no longer need is screwed at both end: I will need to unscrew the lower one to get the old fitting off. I wanted to know what I should then do since I don’t need it. Unscrew it from other end and take it out then leave the...

Thanks, you’re right, it is double insulated: It will just be a case of swapping out all the electrical fixing. This new one is clearly double insulated class 2: For the current ones that quite a length to go to earth them then. With the earth wire on the bar would you remove the bar...

Hi people, I have recently purchased some new downlight fittings for the living room. I bought one at first to ensure it was compatible. The one I tried was a simple levering of the two springs to pop the old one out and the new one in. Of course, now I have bought a set for the lounge the...

Yes I’m not that fussed if it’s not central to that bit of wall so yes straight up is fine. So jabsaw directly above and then channel into whatever solid structure is behind it currently to connect them? I guess it’s worth taking the back box off first to see if there is enough slack? Any...

Difficult to tell. They come through the top left but it’s a very tight fit so you can’t see anything. I may have to remove the back box then to see? It has plaster over the edges so would need to hack some off to prise it out.

Hi, I want to move a kitchen socket because we are having new worktops and the upstands will be 100mm and one of the sockets is 70mm above the worktops currently. Here is the socket: The red box is where it needs to go to be clear off the new upstands. I also wanted it more central. The...

If the main house is very old but the kitchen extension is quite modern what to people think to brick slips after removing render? The bricks under render look cheap so would a rustic brick slip be an option? So something like this...