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What the hell happened with that bottom hip!?

From personal experience when you find a decent reliable tradesmen whether it's a mechanic roofer dentist or window cleaner, if it works for you keep hold of them. There's no black and white solution. I know plenty of good roofers I'd happily recommend if I didn't recommend myself. We're not...

You're reading into it too much. Once you've broken the seal levering those chipboard (probably osb) will be plain sailing. I personally don't use fibreglass, but I tend not to dismiss the work required to make a decent job. So easy roofing is....

Why are you bothering yourself worrying about your neighbours ' unskilled and moronic' roof covering

Absolutely no 'pointing' has been carried out here My builder giving chancers the opportunity to get work they're not adequate to fulfill.

I definitely wouldn't recommend individual verge units on a raking verge or a high profiled tile like yours As mentioned before if you were insisting on dry a continuous system would have been the way forward I'd always prefer an undercloak mortar finish in this case mate

Ok I would search secret gutters on the internet and it should say they require a cover flashing. Find a black and white procedure and ask the roofer to do what's right. What he's done isn't

What tiles were on the original roof. By the look of the existing straight chase job In your picture I don't think that is a sufficient benchmark. I certainly would have installed a stepped cover flashing with a higher waterline to cover the straight chase, not use poxy individual skeleton...

Secret gutter still requires a cover flashing 150mm over the slates/tiles or at least over the tile profile. From what I can see the brickwork looks ok...

You will still need a tile acting as a last point of cover it's a fiddly one making do with normal ridges but it can be done I've found. If you've not worried about aesthetics what about a lead ridge flashing with appropriate support

Good luck with specialist roofing materials ATM mate it's hard enough getting concrete tiles lately. Cant you angle a ridge to give you correct cover on the tile and work a support on the back maybe a temporary batten holding the back up

From my memory interlocking tiles are around the 420mm mark meaning you definitely don't have 100mm headlap

I'm going off assumptions, judging by the tiles they shouldn't of required a cut course under the window. The front apron is 15/20mm max above the corresponding tile if you say it covers 50mm, and you've lost 20mm maximum...where's the other 30mm gone.

Tiles should have 100mm cover/headlap if you say the front apron only covers 50mm then the tiles appear to only have around 65mm which is sufficient for a roof of suitable pitch, not 15 degrees. As data mentioned measure the tile exposure to show gauge.

The angled bit of ally is used to provide kick to tiles above and moves accordingly If the front apron only covers 50mm then the tiles aren't covering 100mm judging by your pictures as it's just shy Course looks stretched above the windows I think there's sufficient cover on the back gutter from...

It's bad mate I've see a lot of things but felt support trays in the valley is a new one I honestly don't understand how some people draw work in that's a disgrace

That's the part im on about I normally extend past the chimney (not tiles my mistake) 150mm and weld the front apron. It looks in line therefore anything that runs off the soakers, assuming there is any, will run behind the front apron.

I'd put an adequate front apron in while you have access it doesn't extend past the tiles by 150. Water will just run off the step/cover flashing into the roof space from what I can see mate.

In 15 years of tiling repairs I can't say I ever forgot to pull tiles back down that's brilliant...are you sure you want this guy back on your roof??

Of all the errors the lack of alternate angles is the funniest