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I removed the heat exchanger which was full of limescale on the DHW side and got some powerflushing fluid from local merchants along with replacement o rings. It was a pink fluid which is highly corrosive £12 for 5 litres. As soon as i poured it in it started bubbling i left it in a few...

i havent but this is a fairly new car and shouldnt need doing till at least 40,000 miles if you have then if its like other new diesel engines it will be a pain as most french cars are. haynes manual avaialable from most good retailers

You could buy some "redi drivas" these are plasterboard specfic fixings (available in plastic or metal) and are very strong on dry lining (barrett homes type of houses) or plain plasterboard. It helps if you drill a 6mm hole first (stops plaster splitting) and then screw the fixing in. I use...

You could try and get rubber O rings that size and fit them in.

Sorry havent updated in a while. I took the flue joining plate to the 90 degree bend off and found that the inner flue (the metal one) had come out of the socket (not sure how). I refitted this and gas is burning in current manner now. NEW problem Pressure fault lights were flashing gauge...

I contacted glowworm via email and they sent me the manual in pdf format their contact is http://www.glow-worm.co.uk/catalogsitelet/product_home.asp

The system hasnt been drained for a long time. it doesnt look like its been cared for at all. All the rads had air in. I will try and get replacement gas valve and also flue gasket and let you know what happens. thanks

yes hot water came out of taps rather than go into CH as they were closed off thanks for the info. Can anyone recommend someone who will come to Portsmouth to carry out the descale? thanks

thanks for the advice i closed off CH valves and ran the taps hot water and after 15 seconds reached 80 degrees and turned burner off to cool down. I assume this is what is meant by overheating. Is it possible to descale the heat exchanger? What sort of product would be best to use? How...

I would but i dont know who to trust.

Its started playing up again. A 3 year old boiler and i replaced the PCB last year. Now when the DHW is requested it sends the heat to the rads. I have changed the diaphrams in the diverter valve and this doesnt seem to have made any difference. When the tap is turned on both microswitches...

It still has the same problem then the light flashes indicating flame failure, if i press reset it seems to allow the boiler to work for a while then same thing happens with the gas pulsing.

sorry kev i did not understand the last comment. someone has suggested i check if the solenoids are sticking first before trying to get PCB. I cannot understand how a Corgi engineer can diagnose a PCB fault if no circuit board layout and function details are available?

Flue is fine combustion seems good. Like i said the problem with the gas does not occur when i put a link into the plg connector of actuator no.3. The chamber is sealed well no gaps or damage.

About the continuity my Fluke is being calibrated so i used my cheap multimeter there was low resistance on each of the actuators approx 117 ohms on the 2 on the right and 113 on the one on the left which i have worked out as being no.3 in the sequence. You might be right about the PCB...

Hello everyone This time i bought a flat and its got one of the above fitted. When HW is run you get warm water only everything ignites and runs for about 10 seconds smooth then it looks like the gas is pulsing. When CH is turned on it runs smooth for a few minutes then gas pulses. On...

Thanks Gasguru, the air was trapped in exchange because when i turned the HW tap on with gas off is came out in a few spurts and quite airy so that took care of that, now heating and water back to how it was.

thanks for the comment i will try that, there was a lot of water coming out of the vessel at the valve at one point it was dripping. i will try getting circulation through heater exchanger and let you know progress tomorrow. thanks

Hello everyone me again. This time a combi as mentioned in the title. The fault is when heating is turned on it runs for 10 minutes and then turns off the house hasnt warmed up yet pressure rises to 1.8 bar. After looking at a few things i checked the expansion vessel it had very little...

It took 2 hours in total to: Drain down system (easy enough) Removed and replaced PRV - PTFE needed (Two nuts removed also had to withdraw complete overflow pipe to access, gauge sender pipe) Removed and replaced Expansion vessel - new washer supplied 1 nut removed (Warning this was...