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It's a heatmiser ufh8 "wiring centre". Zones 1-7 are for ufh zones. They are triggered by Tado wired wall stars. Zone 8 is for the radiator zone. It is triggered by the tado box that in turn receives signals from the tado radiator trvs.

My thread might have been a bit confusing. I need something that screws into the pressure tester but the other side of it looks like the other part. The other part is a stand alone gauge that does screw into the manifold.

Thanks, this makes perfect sense. Everything now stems from the boiler and can be isolated by it's FCU.

I have a pressure tester and I need to find the fitting to attach it to an underfloor heating manifold. Here is the connection on the pressure tester - I need something that screws into this. The connection that screws into the manifold will need to be like this. What is shown below does...

No, 2-core doesn't have an earth :) The boiler installation guide states that a 3amp fuse should be fitted (which it is). It also states that you should use the boilers 230v output to provide power to the wiring centre which I have not done. The wiring centre has a 5 amp fuse so could be be...

I am changing the trigger for my boiler from a timer to a wiring centre. The wiring centre is in a different place to the boiler. What cable diameter is acceptable to run from the boiler live supply / return to the writing centre? I have a reel of 2-core 0.75mm2 - would this be acceptable?

Ok, so the wiring is correct. Potential free means the voltage is not provided by tado to the relay. I'll bell the unit out tomorrow to see if it behaves as expected. Despite wrong findings and assumptions I won't delete this in case it's useful to someone in the future.

Now I am totally confused. I checked the WB system and it says this is a switched live boiler (which is what I expected), however the Tado extension kit has been set to potential free according to jumper position. I put the grey and black wires in a connector block and the boiler works perfectly.

When I try to turn on the heating in the Tado sadly nothing heats up. Not sure if my problem is with Tado or the boiler as the hot water works fine. There is a sound of a relay clicking inside the Tado control unit, but as Tado doesn't always respond immediately to heat demand it's hard to...

Please take a look at this diagram which shows the joists under the floor of a 1st floor. The room is partly over a hall, and partly over a garage hence the brick walls below. I need to get 2 bundles of comms cables through this location, both around 25mm in diameter (see red text on diagram)...

Thanks for replying, I just found these guides which are very useful: https://www.openreach.com/content/dam/openreach/openreach-dam-files/new-dam-(not-in-use-yet)/documents/help-support/New-Sites-Fibre-Handbook-August-2024-online.pdf

I asked chat GPT. Apparently both BT and City Fibre use a Single-mode SC-APC to SC-UPC cable. Hoping this is correct!

Have you ever tried calling BT ? :giggle:

I am trying to future proof my internet connections a bit. As such I want to put in place three cables now in conduit for each ISP in my area whilst I have opportunity. What are the different cable types they use? Virgin (I have this now) Coax type cable joined externally in a brown wall box...

Thanks. Could I heat it up with a hair dryer?

All the videos I have seen show that you can use a bending spring to bend plastic conduit 90 deg. Is it possible to bend it only 30 or 45 degrees ?

I was planning to put in 100mm if kingspan. Concrete would absorb heat and radiate that outwards, where as kingspan would ensure it moves upwards in the right direction.

I'm not able to provide a picture of the hall at present but hopefully the following plan will help. The area marked out in red is a solid floor, as is the garage but that is slightly lower down (1 course of bricks). The area marked in blue is the proposed area to lower. All other floors...

I need to dig down the solid floor of my 1930s property to install under floor heating. I need to do this to get the heights level across the various rooms - I cannot get a "lay on top" system to work despite best efforts. The system will look like this - exact model not shown but it is the...

I have used mechanically fixed insulated plaster board in some rooms I have renovated to good effect. However, I did not use any sort of vapour barrier and unsure if I should have done. The external walls are what I believe is solid brick - that is, two courses of 100mm brick with a few...