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You are misreading. I do not want that to happen, but this is a cold attic and condensation within needs to be taken into account, or so I read.

Okay so, cleared out the eaves so I could get better access to all the ducting. I've since discovered that bugger of a mouse has also chewed at the bathroom flexi ducting as well! Guess it wasn't going for food but because it just seems to like chewing soft aluminium foil. It also triggered one...

I didn't mean the dimensions, I meant in terms of airflow potential, round vs rectangular.

How big is the difference between 150mm round pipe and 204x60 square pipe? I ask because 150mm may be a tight fit under the floorboard space. Wondering if it might be worth it to just be all rectangular ducting.

Sounds good but as mentioned I don't want to use flexi duct again.

Hi all, Recently discovered a little bugger of a mouse had gotten into the attic eaves and, for whatever reason, decided to chew the aluminium flexible ducting used for the cooker hood. I'm presuming it could smell food and tried to make its way to the kitchen. Either way, it has chewed a good...

Haha well the driving rain with the storm today pushed it past its limit, as I noticed it was leaking drips in between some of the sarking today. I guess the force of the rain caused enough ingress at nail/staple points to build up enough under the membrane until it started dripping. Damn.

The problem with extending the depth of the cheeks like this is that it's going to clash with the bay window. Not sure how to work with that.

Are those counter battens required? We don't really use them up in Scotland due to just nailing slates and the membrane direct onto sarking. Never seen it done any other way, even on new builds. Are all these in between steps supposed to provide enough of a gap or something?

I plan to take off the slates on the sides (in order to replace old flashing that is failing at the valley), install a breather membrane over the existing sarking (cromar vent3 Pro) and then put the slates back on.

I looked up on this more and they are specifically called dormer 'cheeks' People doin't seem bothered about stuffing them to the brim with insulation like elsewhere where they'd leave a ventilation gap. I don't really understand it!

Well, haven't gotten the slates all on before all the snow got dumped on everything. I sure hope these membranes can survive a bit of snow and ice in the meantime!

Hi, While the roof part of the dormer is ongoing (https://www.diynot.com/diy/posts/5859047/), I didn't manage to get the slates finished before 6+ inches of snow got dumped on everything. I hope the breather membranes can take a little bit of snow and ice before installation completes! Aside...

For the dormer, I'm planning 200mm of fibreglass over the joists, and in between the joists I will fit 75+50mm rockwool. Avoiding PIR mainly because it has zero sound insulation properties and the walls used to be lath and plaster, so there is significant sound transmission to the room. I could...

Ok, maybe I can just install one of these (I haven't finished the front dormer peaks slating yet due to the weather, only sides are done. I heard the Ubink vent is one of the best flush ones you can get. Doing one on each side would have probably been best but if I can do one at the front and...

Well, while it won't make it watertight, it does help against wind driven rain which we seem to be getting a lot more of over the years, which is what I wanted it for since rot required the removal of a few dormer rafters and new ones installed. Damaging the membrane by walking all over it...

Hi, Got a dormer window in a bay shape that needs work done to the roof framing of it, as the flashing on the sides has failed over the years as well as the mortar that sealed between the slates at the peaks. Will involve ripping the slates off and repairing any sarking/framing that requires it...

Decided to pick up a 120mm SOLA level (on Amazon, they don't sell in the UK but apparently the company is working on bringing their stuff to here). Yeah, this is the level. Much better than Stabila. No problems with accuracy and the vials are so much easier to read especially from awkward...

They're really not that much more expensive compared to Stabila. Do you guys use these levels to hammer in nails?

Austrian company. The vials are magnified and have dark green edges, so it is extremely easy to tell when something is plumb because the bubble fits exactly on the edges of those two green sides.