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Thought that was probably best course of action but wasn't fancying a tricky scribe with all the awkward angles to account for, but thanks for advice.

Hi All, Probably a simple question but driving me nuts. Fitting an interior sill, the gap at either side of the sill (wall back to window) is different by about 20mm. If I fit the sill butted to window, cut at same depth right across, I end up with the overhang and sill horns different at each...

Thanks, assuming thats a good temporary fix, but also assuming water shouldn't really be in that part of the valve? Am I also right about the nut a bit further down, should this valve have a gland nut?

Here's the side view, initially it looked all one piece but looks maybe like the top chrome piece could come off with a spanner, would there be a gland nut under there?

Only had the valves less than 12 months, what's involved in stripping?

Hi All, Looking some help, slightly tapped the radiator valve and a leak has appeared out of the top where the spindle is. Quick google and most suggestions are to tighten the gland nut. I've taken the spindle cap off, undone screw underneath but there's no gland nut (pic attached). What do I...

Definitely not c16 grade, been there since 1960s, and no noggins. Here's hoping they last another 30 odd years!

Roughly 1.5m spans at 400 centres. I suppose how narrow they are was a surprise, wouldn't have expected anything less than 40mm, 24mm seems super thin

Doing a bit of decorating and had a sneaky look under the floorboards to see what the story was, floor bit bouncy (to very bouncy) in places. Much to my surprise the joists are 24mm thick (by about 100mm). House was built early 60s, would that have been common? Seems massively undersized, closer...

Thanks for the advice all

Ok, so you'd start full tile at the outer edge, another full tile then cut tile at the inside corner, or is it better to full tile out from inside corner and have cut tile on outside edge?

Hi All, Retiling corner shower and proposing layout in pic attached. Does this look sensible or should there be some other layout I should consider? I basically started with the widest wall, tile out from centre line on this wall and wrap around to other wall. Any suggestions welcome! Thanks

Wall is brick, and edge where shower screen will attach is pretty level, it's as you go into the corner it goes out. Probably thinking the skim worst parts with bagged tile adhesive and try to minimise it as much as I can. What would you use to prime the wall before doing this? thanks

I thought it had to be but maybe not. Any practical considerations for tiling on a wall that's not plumb up and down? Tiles will slope in as I move down the wall, in my head sounds hard to make look good and avoid them obviously looking like they slope in - maybe won't be that obvious though

Assumed it did matter and wouldn't make tiling any easier, and starting with a plumb, flat surface would be the best starting point. But maybe it doesn't matter. Equally i'm not sure how you'd go about building out 20mm on the lower half of the wall

I'm assuming 20mm is a bit too thick even for the thickest of adhesives

Hi All As always, nothing is straightforward... Aiming to do some tiling this weekend, retiling a shower. Had the levels out checking things, and 1 of the 2 shower walls is out of plumb 20mm top to bottom. Any suggestions for how to overcome this difference? Had been considering backer...

Fair enough (y)

Picked up two differently marked C16 timbers from local builders merchant, who informed me they'd both cut the mustard in terms of being used as structural timber in a floor i.e. building control would be happy. Markings on each are attached, one with a lot more detail and the other just a red...

No good options by sound of it. Digging out will no doubt involve BC, plans and months of waiting. Quick fix isn't ideal long term and by sounds of it mixing in a bucket isn't an option, so will need to hire mixer for a screed up to SLC.