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No not hard, just hadn't expected two dead motors in a row, trying fit this in with mending broken cars to earn a living and getting my head around how a heating system functions. As I have said, thanks to all who offered advice, it is all appreciated and I have learned a lot :)

Having found time to look a little further, as ianmcd suggested, I move my H/W motor (known to be working) to the C/H, guess what the C/H works as designed. The motor then fitted to the H/W loop, H/W not working. In short a defective motor, the second one in three weeks!!!! A replacement ordered...

If I were a C/H engineer I to would have it sorted. I'm an automotive engineer which is why I'm ' having a go' ..... just driven by the need to know what has failed and why rather than pick up the phone and have someone fit a new part. Starting from 0 knowledge I have learned a lot in just a few...

This driving me round the bend! At risk of being shot down in flames by those of you with FAR SUPIRIOR knowledge……here goes……there can be little wrong with my system given that Zone 1 will give heat if the 2 port is operated manually, Zone 2 functions as designed direct from its programmer and...

Just checked volts across the brown and blue again now showing 170

When I open the valve manually all is good, the boiler fires and I get heating. It just looks like the instruction from the programmer isn't getting to the valve. The H/W side of it works perfectly

I was hoping that avoiding eBay and using a specialist suppliers the knock off copies would be avoided lol who knows but it easy enough to try another

Wires restore, programmer calling for heat and 240 volts between brown and blue at the plug

I purchased it from plumbing supplies shop online, I don't recall the name. For the£35-£40 they cost I will pick up another and give it a try

See the OP clearly lacking in that department. Not sure what means? Apologies for not ticking the thanks tag, have now addressed that

240 volts but, not getting a meaningful resistance measurement

Heating didn't always switch off, when you checked the lever it was open and had to be shut by hand. The valve feels fine no resistance etc

I hoped not, it brand new.

240 volts

C/H on 240 volts brown to blue wiring center to plug, the same brown/grey plug to valve. Same values with C/H off

Tried that, power back on and the boiler hasn't fired. Open the valve manually and the boiler as fired. So no material change from before

Is that double up the brown and grey on both sides of the plug? Should I looking for the boiler to fire from the programmer, I know I can get it to fire now by manually opening the 2 port

Brown comes from Danfoss 2 port into the wiring center via a Region 5 way plug. I figured that is what was happening, just don't know why or where

C/H off 108 volts C/H on 116 volts