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Yes and maybe! Plus you can try the brackets in both positions now. Edit to say push the valves out towards the centre of the room!

Had the same issue. You can buy 15mm to 1/2BSP converters which'll push out the valve.

Thank you. It's very tight to wall, though, to get an Allen key in. Does turning the nut on the stud do the same thing? Or does the bottom part of the hinge (the white half) come off to reveal some other adjustments? It seems part of the hinge itself. :-(

Just moved in and the back door's skewwhiff and dragging on the laminate floor. I've never seen hinges like this before (four in all) and they're tight against the wall. Can they be adjusted without digging out plasterboard etc? TIA!

I think my worry is a) it's very tight on space (pic one) and b) there's a soldered elbow t'other side of plasterboard (pic 3) which will probably dribble out if I try soldering a stub on the other end. Just wondering if there not any extensions which can be used for this. The rad tail...

If that tail in pic would accept 15mm pipe (it's a gnat's tight), the problem would be solved, as I could use the existing nut and extend the valve out a short way. Are they all this size? :( Edit to say that's just a valve I had lying around to play with some copper and try out my theory.

HI and thanks for reply. The first photo is the one which needs extending out of the wall. Second photo is where it'll need to be lengthwise (as this one's a double); the third photo shows an example of how the rads are plumbed into the wall. This one's excavated because it's going. So...

I was thinking of this sort of thing. Bit of an extension on the feed. https://www.toolstation.com/pegler-mistral-2-trv/p91784

Stud. And it goes through the floor (which I can't get beneath), like the piccy below. This particular rad was screwed to a partition stud wall, and I need to do away with this one anyway, hence the brutalised plasterboard etc.

I want to add a double rad in the place of the existing single, but anticipating the valves will not line up, as the double will (probably) have its tails further from the wall. My pipes inconveniently go into the cavity through plasterboard and they have little wiggle room. Can you get valves...

Thanks all. Like I said I haven't moved in yet but it had passed me by that as this is a combi based system I would only need to control the heating, which may mean a like for like. (Slaps forehead!) Think I'll move in and try for a few weeks before considering or dismissing a thermostat...

I haven't moved in yet so have few further details but in principle can I swap a Danfoss programmer with a Drayton without wiring alterations if they both have a 'standard backplate'? Thanks in advance!

A teeny whack with a hammer on a bit of wood on the edge of the covering (not rad) may help. Can't see from pic but the bottom tail may have a plastic insert in panel which can either be rotated so the cutout's in the correct place to allow the panel to lift or it may be gently leverable out...

I'm staying in a holiday caravan at mo, one year old and it's very nice, but has no thermostast. So I can either turn the boiler off, leave it on all the time or put it on timer. Obvs I can tweak TRVs until blue in the face but it seems a bit wasteful. Thoughts please. Just curious.

Yes.

Didn't you get brackets with the new rads? Even so, £300 per rad still sounds ridiculous.

Think that's an imponderable, eg type of heating, insulation, boiler temp, rad size, type, size of room, property type and so on.

A lot less! Screwfix rad

I had to made some plumbing amends at a friend's place and I needed to remove the paint from the copper pipe before extending the pipework using Speedfit (same would apply for soldered connections, I guess). I scraped, then wire-wooled, even tried a sanding block and pan scrubber. But it took...

I'm no plumber but I'd stick. Never had an issue with pressure, etc, in three years, and this was a 10-year-old unit when I moved in.