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For those waiting with bated breath......Temp index 2.2, Fridge Temp 4.5C/6.0C, Freezer -17.0C/-15.5C, Compressor cycle duty ~ 55% at around average of 26watts, 47watts on, calculated yearly energy consumption, 228kWh. Will do manual defrost in 3 months, no sign of any icing up as yet.

Some going Mottie, I thought I was doing well at over 16 years before mine packed up for good, but then again I was probably doing a more frequent wash than you, at every 3 weeks or so, you will catch up. :giggle::giggle:

AI informs me..... The Core Difference: Easi-Fit vs. Fast-Fit While both models are designed by Triton specifically to replace older, broken showers without requiring you to re-tile or alter your existing bathroom pipework, they handle internal plumbing and wiring setups slightly differently...

I've got (in Cork) a 9kW, Triton T80Z Fast-Fit, don't know if they are sold in the UK but very easy to install, maybe the easi-fit is its equivalent in the UK?.

I hope so Dan but hope you don't just end up with another blown TCO. This shower's PCB probably control relay(s) that make/break the power to the heating elements so suggest to start up the shower (after replacing the TCO) on its no power setting and see if it runs cold, then while still...

You've proved both microswitches OK, presume you are saying that there is NO continuity (now) so difficult to see what's causing the problem, have you checked the continuity of the TCO, if its open then no continuity and needs replacing after fault is found. When you shut off the shower...

Just had a look at the MIs, your shower has two TCOs, one (self resetting) is in the outlet and the other non resettable one is on the heating can, that shower also has a phased shutdown where the heating elements are switched off but the water continues to flow for a some seconds to cool down...

Sounds like a microswitch has stuck on, sometimes, then, the first stage trip in the TCO will operate at 48C/50C and will reset either when you press the start button (after some cold water flows through the heating can) or up to a hour later, automatically, if the microswitch is still stuck on...

I would measure the resistance(s) of the heating can(s), the rated output can then be calculated, a old shower like that may only be 7.5/8.0kW, 6mm2 cable is OK for a 9.0kW shower which gives a ~ 13%/20% power increase & flowrate and would seem like heaven compared to the old one.

All washing machines measure the water level in the drum after the initial fill and a few drum rotations, the water level will then drop due to to garment soakage and the fill valve will again open to restore the level, this may happen a few times before the wash cycle really commences so...

If the cold wash which obviously doesn't heat the water is problematic then unlikely that the heating element is the problem since its not used. To check the heating element, change the M.meter to the 200 ohm scale and connect the two probes to the heating element terminals (Machine switched...

If you havn't access to the house meter or if its "non" smart then you can buy one of these very accurate energy monitors for ~ £15 and just plug int in to the socket and plug the (any) appliance plug into the monitor, it displays the true power in watts as it takes the power factor into its...

I think I can (now) take it that this F.Freezer is working as designed and this will be my last set of posted readings for some time, maybe until defrost time, whenever that will be. 0645 hrs....... Room temp 19.1C, Fridge/Freezer Temps 3.9C/-18.1C, (Temp Index 2.5). Compressor Off.

If you have a smart electrical meter which pulse a LED at 1000 pulses per kWh, you can use it to easily check if the heating element is working. Before starting the W/machine ensure any big users like electric kettle, cylinder immersion etc not on then have a look at the pulsing LED, it should...

I increased the temp dial to 2.5 (from 2.2) when I re installed the F.Freezer at 1813 last evening and at 0720 this morning (room temp 14C) Fridge/Freezer temps were 5.7C/-16.1C with compressor off so will leave the temp setting as is for the present. I use a digital thermometer with the wire...

A few readings after refilling the F.Freezer with some new food mixed with the old, the compressor ran continuously for 12 hrs, power then 45 (ish) watts, the Fridge was 5C/6C and the Freezer -15C, temp dial set to index 4, the compressor cut out when I reduced the setting very slowly to 2.2...

Your Mis should show where the pressure gauge tapping point is, its probably after the boilers heat exchanger so should reflect the residual pressure after the heat exchanger's pressure drop, the MIs should show the HEX's pressure drop at different flowrates for the different boiler models...

If your boiler is a sealed system with a EV, note the boiler pressure with the pump off, start the boiler/pump, the pressure should rise by the pump generated head, ie, if the boiler stopped pressure is say 1.0bar and then rises to say 1.3bar then the pump head is 0.3bar/3.0M or whatever.

Bought one of these a few days and and left it for a day or two as recommended even though it was obviously delivered upright. I plugged it it in ~ 2 hrs ago and a very accurate energy monitor showed a initial 62 Watts, the power draw now is 52 Watts, room temp is 23C. This seems exceptionally/...

That Ariston 571730 combination valve is interesting in that apart from its pressure relief valve it also has two spring loaded valves in the inlet, one opens inwards to admit mains water to the cylinder, this valve has another smaller spring loaded valve inside in it which opens outwards back...