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I want to raise the level of my hearth to ultimately install a wood burning stove. However, the current hearth (below floor level) is cracked and powdery, and has a big piece missing right underneath where the old fireplace was. It's clearly been damaged by all the thermal stresses over its...

It was a bit tricky to tell, but there were no signs of rot or rotational play. The room has a bay window, and a double perpendicular joist just before the bay. The 16.4 ft joist spans from an internal wall, to this perpendicular joist, so there isn't really a possibility of rot due to both ends...

The unsupported span is 16.4 feet. I have other rooms to go, so I'll certainly look into strutting as supposed to sistering. Although more likely I'll just use shims to level these floors as the spans are quite short and it's not worth taking out the small amount of bounce. Fair enough. The...

I misread your previous previous message. To clarify, the original joists are 220mm deep and 75mm wide. The sisters are 220mm deep and 45mm wide. My S/E friend is actually quite old, and so is maybe only familiar with the tried and tested overkill timber methods for floor stabilisation. The new...

It holds the T&G flooring surface together tightly. 6mm ply is great, but it leaves only 1mm for soundproofing on top. I could lay 7mm soundproofing on top of the joists, but I still need to hold the T&G flooring together somehow, and the flimsy membrane wouldn't cope with this. I also...

I removed some old 27mm T&G flooring. To remove bounce, I then double-sistered and leveled the 75mm floor joists with 2x 45mm sisters. Now I'm thinking about how to install the new 20mm engineered floorboards. I have 7mm spare. The final height of the floor cannot be raised. Ideally, I'd make...