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As you've already varnished the new boards this is a little late...but... I stained my new boards - to match boards laid in 1910 - with coffee grounds - several coats - and then varnished. Only I know where they are now!

Give us a link to the site so we can take a look!

Why are you posting on a question that's nearly a year old? You have to guess they got the problem soted out before now! Unless this guest's a Troll, of course.

I'd bleach the whole seal so that you get an even finish.

You can use bleach on wood but use a 1 part bleach to 3 parts water solution and rinse well with clean water afterwards. The problem you possibly face is a difference between the bleached area and the non-stained. Will the stain not rub out with a fine grit sandpaper?

That's rotton luck Mikieo...I was looking forward to the pics ;) Seriously that is bad luck and a rotton break. I hope you're insured through you house&contents.

Screw them down! Floorboard nails are fine - if driven at an angle and the ones at the opposing end are driven at the opposite angle - but if you have a squeak then screws are better. Countersink a pre-drilled pilot hole and drive the screw in. You can then use either woodfiller or a flexible...

If your new spotlight is a low voltage jobby then you'll need a new low voltage switch. Standard dimmer switches won't work with low voltage spots because the dimmer is only lowering the input voltage to the transformer (which isn't good practice at all!) not to the transformer's output, which...

You're correct, Breezer. My poor wording rather than ignorance. Sorry!

I can't think of any easy way to achieve this on a concrete floor. By nature concrete is textured - even if the texture is not too apparent. The paint, therefore, will have filled all the tiny imperfections in the surface and sanding, for instance, will not reach the paint in these imperfections...

You could do all the prep first and then just get the spark to connect your new CU to the mains. Probably just charge the callout that way. £50ish would seem about the going rate these days.

This one isn't a DIY job. Unless you're a spark you'll need to get one in. The new CU needs to come directly from the backside of the primary feed which means either working live, which is not a bright thing to do, or removing the mains fuse. Also not a bright thing to do unless you're a spark...

I wanted one complete (wooden) sash window making in the middle of last year and was quoted £320+ for it. As we bought this place to "do up" and sell so that we could move southwest I thought I'd have a go at making it myself...although I should say that my father-in-law is a (now retired)...

It depends how deep the burn is. If it is shallow then a cabinet maker's scraper could be used to gently scrape over the burn taking as little as possible off at each stroke. A craft knife blade, or the iron from a plane, could be used as a cheaper option. But they would need the bevel honing...

Try a hairdryer. As it's painted metal you should use low heat at first and step it up as required. Once melted lift it with a soft cotton cloth. Cellulose thinners will clean the last of it up but as you are only 14 I'd suggest you get your mother to do that part...thinners can be dangerous...

If your Aircon unit is a motor compressor type - similar to a domestic refrigerator's or freezer's - and it draws 80A at start up then I would think it would be fitted with a capacitor to "jump start" it. This would take some of the load off the ringmain and your MCB. Is this a domestic unit...

Good luck, mikieo. I look forward to the pics! (I wonder if Rustin's will give me my next tin of woodturning sealer for nowt for sending them customers?) I doubt it! :(

Every bloke's dream! A valid excuse to buy a new toy...I mean tool and you want to hire! Seriously though, you probably should hire but you might like to know that you can buy a perfectly good FERM SDS DRILL from SCREFIX for £35.99 inc. So you could buy the drill and Blackspur bits for not...

Not too difficult with a router. If you route the hole from the outside of the door leaving a rebate for the glass you could then pin and putty your glass in place from the outside. You would need to rig a template to run the router off to ensure that your circle was true but that shouldn’t...

Self coloured caulk would do the job. You can get a pine(ish) colour and it's flexible which it would have to be. Once cured you can paint or varnish it as you would the skirting.