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Let's hope not, in the photo it looks solid, mind you IMHO Bonding is a bad choice of material for a bathroom or anywhere there is a chance of damp/moisture or leakages, there are materials on the market that can withstand water contact , good old sand and cement with a waterproofer added is...

It should dry a bit lighter but I expect it to still show a watermark , it should paint over without issues, the worry with carlites like Bonding is it can rot if it is subject to damp/water over a long period, but if it is still solid and not blown away from the wall it should all be good

Hi, plasters call them trowels, not floats, if the trowel (float) you own suits you and does a good job in your hands then that is all you need, all plasterers use their finishing trowel when they first get one as a rendering trowel to break it in (or rub it on a kerb edge in wet sand) and the...

In my experience , Scottish rough cast (exterior walls) is granite chippings and neat cement cast layer over layer (scudding) and that sets like bell metal, that type of surface takes a lot to make it crack, look further into it is my advice

Hi there should be two or three courses of engineered bricks, (blue bricks) , you say you don't have damp problems, if it ain't broken, don't fix it,

When you say external walls, are you talking about the whole side of a house? If you are rendering a large area and have to stop, it is advisable to cut the render in a tapered zigzag line when you leave it, so you can blend it in easier when you return, you squeeze/cut the render at a tapered...

Fibre tape (sticky mesh) all the way,

That is truly shocking work, that builder should take his tools and throw them in the nearest river, it looks as though he hasn't really tried to leave a nice finish, people like him give the trade a bad name, I would seek advice from a local plasterer to see if an over skim would put it right...

Hi, the fuzzy stuff was probably salts and nothing to worry about, the plaster should dry out quickly if you allow plenty of air flow to allow the moisture to leave , now drying time depends on the plaster backing, if it's plaster board or sand and cement they will dry out reasonably quickly, if...

Hi, I see in your post that you were considering boarding the wall, there are thermal plus plaster boards on the market that can be dabbed onto the wall , these boards help keep the cold and damp out, however you must address your damp problem, you need to check if there is a damp course along...

I did my bedroom a few years ago after taking the previous owner's wallpaper off and the skim just shelled off in large patches , there were large cracks where the electrical conduit was and where there had been a bit of movement, I scraped all the loose plaster skim off and PVA'd the whole wall...

yes just where the nails have popped, any plaster filler will do, you won't need a lot, I have used pound shop filler before now ,just dampen the hole a little bit before you fill it

you can just fill them as they are and take ya chance they won't pop again, it is difficult as I am not there to actually feel the board, but it is clear the nails are not fully in , only go as far as you are happy to go

yeah this can happen as I stated in post 6, hopefully you won't find too many, it is a common event with plaster boards to have nail pops just push the ceiling up and if no more pop fill the holes in

yep it looks like a popped clout nail head, try and knock it up a bit with a punch and hammer , while you are up there push the ceiling board up a bit to see if it is loose , you may need to put another fixing in, if its solid just patch it up,

youtube has some videos on rendering, try this vid Beginners Guide To Rendering…Every STAGE Revealed | MIXING/ APPLICATION/ PERFECT FINISH

4:1 render coat should be fine, the top coat should not be stronger than the backing coat but you have no way of knowing the strength of the mix already on the wall, I personally would make sure the surface is sound and reasonably clean and apply a thin scratch coat onto the wall , this is done...

why do you want to chip it, you could just render over it again , flat render is softer on the skin than stone chips if you fall and scrape yourself along it.

If you are going to replace the tiles then just fill in the areas that have pulled away with sand and cement render and rub flat. wet the hole down first to help prevent the water being sucked out of the render too fast and causing it to shrink back to fast and crack or fail