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note the op had a 2 channel Wiser Hub, so be careful with any wiring you see in the pictures

There are three parts to a working Hive system. The thermostat (as in your picture), a receiver that connects to your home router and a hub that replaces your existing central heating programmer. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hive-851814-Thermostat-Heating-control/dp/B097TNDW6Y

Presumably before you started the system was working correctly with the Danfoss and your only change was to swap Danfoss to Hive. Are you able to re-instate the Danfoss to verify the central heating is OK? When you said "did exactly what you said" does that mean the link between 3 & 6 was not...

looking at your original picture for the Danfos 102, I think you had T1 - 1 x brown T2 - 1 x brown T3 - 3 x Earth T5 - 2 x blue T6 - 1 x brown link between T3 & T6 - blue Your Hive picture shows N - 3 x blue (from T5) <<==== L - 1 x brown (from T6) 3 - 1 x brown (from T1) 4 - 1...

Sounds like it's working correctly. If pressing the HW button on it's own fires up the boiler that implies the hot water tank is below the thermostat temp. Then when you press the CH button, the boiler fires up because the hot water is still below it's required temp. In gravity mode the HW is...

You should swap for Kit-1 If you have problems swapping at Screwfix and your boiler supports 240V switching, it may be possible use the 2-channel model leaving the Wiser hot water channel unused. However you should attempt to replace as that's the best way forward...

Ok, as you indicated the op requires a kit-1 rather than the 2-channel model mention in the original post. That should be a straightforward swap.

The Wiser would generally replace the existing programmer rather than thermostat. How do you currently manage the on/off periods for hot water and central heating.

https://www.toolstation.com/drayton-wiser-smart-thermostat-wt724r9k0902/p82557

Also note the Hive internet hub uses an ethernet port on your router or switch. I'd recommend you review the differences between the Hivi mini (£108) and regular Hive (£150). The Wiser 2-channel model is also around £150

On that basis you should just be able to swap over to either Hive or Wiser. Both use an identical wiring arrangement to what you have today. You may even be able to reuse the current ST9400C backplate but even if not it's a simple rewire. Just ensure you get the correct model, you will need one...

Do you have a separate pump for the UFH or is it shared with the HW & CH? If it's shared, that implies the boiler controls the pump. Excluding the smart side of the Wiser, in essence all its doing is applying 240V to the brown wire into the 2-port valve. The valve orange connection should not...

If you have a mid-port valve that implies Y-Plan. Presumably you have independent control over HW and CH, some Y-Plan systems require HW to be on to allow the CH to run. As for proprietary systems, they are all to some extent if you tie in their smart TRV's, light bulbs, etc. If however you are...

You indicate your current system is HW/CH. Is your hot water pumped or gravity feed. Your best bet would probably be Hive or Wiser to replace your ST9400C. However prior to deciding you need to understand your type of heating system. For example Hive supports gravity HW whilst Wiser does not...

Hive, Nest, Tado, TR6, Wiser.. take your pick Or do you want to control your ST9400C remotely over the internet?

It's not that unusual for a thermostat to have batteries as that allows it to have a display or programmable functions. The presence of batteries is not an indicator of the stat being wireless. A picture would confirm if you have a wired or wireless device.

They key thing to understand is the wiring as it affects the boiler operation. The wiring centre is the white rectangular box with 8 cables going into it. More than likely the cable running to the LP241 is 5-core (Line, neutral, earth, HW & CH), the 3-channel Wiser should have a 6-core cable...

If the replacement was just for the LP241 and associated thermostat that would be easy! Basically undo LP241 and replace by Wiser on same backplate plus some minor rewiring for the roomstat. And you are done but it's more complicated unfortunately if you want the Wiser to look after HW + CH +...

I assume both the UFH and radiators (+ hot water) are heated by the boiler. What is you current programmer setup. You mention three thermostats but no programmer. Normally the setup would be a thermostat attached to the HW tank + 1 or more room thermostat(s) connected to a programmer. You could...

The hot water from the boiler circulates around a coil in the tank rather than mixing with the water in the cylinder. It's a gradual process for the cylinder to heat up and it's unlikely the water returning to the boiler will match the cylinder thermostat value for a period of time. There is no...