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Thanks, I’ve bought one can of spray foam to see how it goes, the access is really right. If it sucks I’ll revert to PIR. Might try to slot some cavity wall batts in above the void to insulate the wall above as after investigating that seems to be insulated with spider webs only

I have a 1960s chalet style house with dormers. Behind the front wall of the dormer is a vented space which makes the room very cold. I have accessed the void by cutting through the wall. It’s pretty tight and I’d like to insulate the walls of the room from behind the plasterboard. Could spray...

Or mine! There is insulation, certainly wouldn’t surprise me if condensation were or became an issue however, damp only appears when it rains and did stop when i sealed up the joints with CT1 as a temporary measure. I’ll be getting a builder in to have a look

I have a 1960s chalet style house with dormers. Behind the front wall of the dormer is a vented space which makes the room very cold. I have accessed the void by cutting through the wall. It’s pretty tight and I’d like to insulate the walls of the room from behind the plasterboard. Could spray...

If there is a tray it’s so far down you can’t see it

Such fine work by somebody…

Thanks . There are weep holes in the wall so I assume there are cavity trays. That being said they didn’t do a DPC which seems amateur AF so worth checking

Yeah, it’s an outer wall

I’ve recently moved into a house with a recent (5yrs) flat roof extension out the back. The extension has parapet walls topped with coping stones. Not long after we moved in we noticed damp at the right angle with the ceiling and after an inspection of the roof it seems there is either no DPC or...

Ok, so link wire likely not needed. The grey wire went to the room stat though. Is that ok still?

Its tricky to see but the Salus us the box in the middle. This is before I changed anything. The wiring for the salus is written on the box. The wires with the blue topped ferules joining terminal block are the ones from the salus. First two are the frost stat, middle three L, N, E and final two...

Hopefully I haven't fried the wiser hub too :S

This was original wiring

So the live is coming from the grey switch wire? There was no link on the salus RF itself. There was a link between the room stat terminals in the boiler

Are you sure? The instructions state "Power needs to be put on to terminal 1 either by linking from L or a sperate supply". The supply comes from the boiler so my understanding was that it should be there

Could my wiring of the Drayton controller done it? This is what I had. Live coming from the brown and the two switching wires going to the room stat terminals on the ideal boiler. I have seen one picture of a single switching wire coming from the Drayton but their instruction seems to suggest...

Thanks Harry, that does make me feel better! Your tip about the guaranteed repair was a good one too. While more money than I wanted to pay it seems like the best bet at this stage. The ROI on my smart heating might be a year longer than i'd hoped!

I picked up some fuses but it still blows, makes a lovely electrical burning smell too. Certainly needs a new PCB. Their engineer is coming Saturday and they know it is suspect so he'd better have a pcb on the van. Hopefully he can wire in the Drayton hub too. Had a horrible thought that i'd...

I don't think so, that's just where the PCB makes the connection between the component and the leads. It's the two terminals on the leads side that seem a bit blackened/discoloured

Seems to be a T4AH250V will see if RS have them