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There's wall space available, however, I was just trying to keep the costs down as much as possible, so was going to just to use the original pipework already in place, if possible. I'm not sure if there is copper pipe that runs around the rest of the living room / kitchen. The only place I can...

Yep, fair enough! I've attached an image of the layout of the room in any sense and where the radiator is! In your experience, would the beam running above where the radiator is affect the convector type circulation of the heat around the room?

Thanks, it's almost like I could've worked that out myself...

Amazing, thanks for doing this! As a failsafe before I consider now ordering this radiator... if the two couplers together make it come out too far, is there anything to be done here? Also, does the straight coupler on the pipe have to go all the way in, or is there some flexibility on this...

Ahh okay, fair enough, thanks for the explanation. In any sense, I'm guessing that this radiator would still be better at heating the room than the four column one I initially put? Is it a particularly expensive job to get a new radiator installed into the room? This is the only one in there...

Okay thanks. I have drawn a diagram and put the connection ends together how I'm thinking you're saying they should go - is this right? Thanks!

Ah right, so something like this? https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-brass-compression-adapting-female-coupler-15mm-x-1-2-/76567 So would it look something like the following: Straight female valve onto copper pipe > extension piece > onto 90 degree valve > extension piece > onto TRV.

This is the one I was talking about - 1800 X 600 double. As above, the valves are on the bottom and don't line up with the current copper pipes, so I'm looking for a solution to get some angles to make it fit...

Ah perfect, thanks for this. Yeah, 77mm projection from the wall. So in terms of this, the female elbow on the copper pipe, inserted into the valve extension and then into the angled TRV / lockshield? So that should give me the ability to get the correct angle. However, is there anything I...

So I think double checking, the 600mm convector vertical radiator should absolutely do the job heat wise (3113W). This is pretty much spot on where it needs to be. However, the tricky bit now is the pipes... as mentioned, the pipes themselves are 620mm apart. The K2 unit is 600mm wide and the...

The heat loss calculator said I need somewhere between 11000-13000 BTU. The column one is showing at 11330, whilst the convector (double) is showing at 8107.

Ahhh thank you for the detailed explanation, it's appreciated. So in essence, despite the column one having around 3000-4000 more BTU output (according to the website), these numbers don't actually translate to real life heating, so to speak? And despite the lower BTU output of the K2, it would...

Great - thanks. Do you think they're using a specific type of PIR, perhaps stronger to be suitable for weight bearing, or just standard? If I did choose to bond (appreciate I don't need to, which makes sense), would it just be glue?

Ah, I was planning on simply replacing the 2 column for a 4 column one. I would only replace this one radiator. It's the only radiator in the room, so I was thinking the best thing to do was do a like for like replacement (reducing cost of not needing pipes moving), but doubling the amount of...

Hi All I'm looking to insulate my loft and want to replace the current floorboards with insulated ones. You can buy them pre-made and I'd need about 14m², or around 20 boards, which would come to a cost of around £460. Looking into the product, it states that it is 8-11mm OSB3 bonded to 100mm...

Hi All I'm looking to swap my two column vertical radiator for a 4 column one, as it's the only one to cover both the kitchen and living room area. The one now has a width if around 550mm (including the valve areas) and new one is 560mm wide, so should swap over easily enough size wise...

So the lower JB is accessible and that's the one linked to the downrights I mentioned above. Would that JB that I spoke about be suitable to spur from? The reason being is it is exactly where I want the dishwasher, so would be easier. The other socket is on another side of the wall, so would...

Given as per the comment above in terms of difficulty accessing that JB above, is there a different step I can take? There is a socket on the other side of the wall, as mentioned that I could consider spurring off perhaps if the lower JB isn't suitable?

Unfortunately due to the angle of it and there being a wooden beam right in front of it (close) I can't actually get even a mini ratcheting screwdriver in there!

Ah, there were two in the picture - the lower one is the one I am referring to. The JB above it is really tricky to get to!