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Usually laid on permeable tarmac which in maybe laid on Type 3 for the best all around drainage.

Must be laid in one continuous lay or you will end up with joints that could potentially allow water to pocket. If this freezes, it will lift the surface. Personally I would leave it to the pro's. Resin looks great when done right but an expensive mistake when not. Nothing to stop you doping all...

Sink and drain unblocker works well for this. Pour it in and leave overnight. Any hair and sludge is dissolved and will wash away

You leave a gap where the air bricks are ;) You can get special inserts

Never permanantly get rid of them unless you remove the ability for them to root. Filling the gully with something like 20-40mm Pebbles will still allow drainage but won't give the weeds a medium to root in.

The Type 1 in the white box is how it should be, 40mm down to dust. The area to the right of the box shows materials without enough fines in. It looks like a rake may have been used to level which has left the fines behind. A board rake or back of shovel should be used when levelling type 1 so...

If there is no sub base such as Type 1 then yes, use a membrane. If there is a sub base the membrane should go under the sub base and not between the sub base and finished gravel surface.

We use it a lot. As long as you follow the laying instructions and have a good free draining base, it won't give you much trouble. There is a good variety around now also. We tend to use Cotswold Self Binding Gravel which is quite a bit cheaper than Breedon.

We purchased one during lockdown. I was totally against it to start with but to be fair I'm in it the most these days. Very expensive to run in the winter but IMHO, worth it.

The sub base is fine there's just nothing holding it in preventing lateral movement. Sub base appears to be above ground rather than below it which is the issue. Concrete doesn't look like it has been pokered very well though.

You must absolutely keep 150mm between finished level and DPC. Water will breach your DPC otherwise and cause damp issues inside, not to mention green walls on the outside. Also, if you try to sell your house it will show on a survey. If you need to gain more of a gradient for drainage you can...

I bought 4 bulk bags of Self Binding Gravel to lay and now I wish I hadn't as it's too hot!

I understand where you are coming from but It's going to cost you more in the long run when you have to do it twice. Plus you will have twice as much waste to get rid of if the lean mix fails

Check for any sharp stones and lay straight on top without the sand

Would second Gabion Baskets. Pretty straight forward to construct and if done right can look much nicer than a brick wall.

Type 1. Make sure it is certificated as a lot of the recycled options are only "Type 1 Graded"

I'd be checking with your local authority asap. They will make you pull it up otherwise.

Buy "10mm All in Ballast" which is basically the gravel and sand element mixed together. You can then add cement and water, et voila, it's concrete. Standard concrete uses 20mm Ballast but this will probably be too large for a planter.

A traditional concrete mix would have 20mm stone in but as it is for a shed you shouldn't have any issues using 10mm. A suitable mix would be 3:2:1. (3 parts Gravel, 2 parts Sharp Sand, 1 part Cement)

It's a sub-base failure and is entirely the contractors problem to rectify. Any contractor worth their salt would not have an issue in sorting this. Can't understand why they would not be forthcoming in sorting this as it isn't a difficult job to rectify.