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There is nothing stopping you from putting some cladding on the outside of the SIP metal roofing panels. On the top and bottom its not needed. Ref the complaint about it being a sweat box. Why? Do you build wooden houses full of holes? If you desire holes drill them through the side.

This is what I came up with Size is 6m x 3m and panels come to <£3k

I'm going to build a garden room and decided against a SIP and went instead for insulated metal roof panels. You can make the entire building using just the same 80mm panel. Walls roof and floor. Cutting it is just a circular saw. Water proof out of the box.

I'm a little worried. The lintel will be there for a reason, removing any of it is not a good idea. I'm presuming the brickwork above the opening is still there.

The design has moved on now the claterlivering is now just about done. I have all the design now sorted including the guttering behind the facia

"All this to achieve a recess of what.. 2 inches?" 60-100mm is more like 3-4 inches If I mount the frame to the beam whats the R value and how do you insulate it?? I'm pretty sure steel and wood is less insulating than just wood. You know like all the other joists. Opening is 5mtrs

blup The design is now such there there is not much cantilevering. What there is is being taken up by the bolts which I may add to higher in the beam web. If need be I can add a strap across the from the joist to the blocks. I also have to factor in a hidden gutter system. Personally I would...

These are the issues I have to deal with 1 The extension limits the height of the structure to 3mtrs. The original kitchen is stepped down to so I want to raise the floor. Add that to the level of the ground out the back being again lower I am very limited in ceiling height head room. I cannot...

I think I'm putting a big target on my back by having the 400mm overhang, and since all I'm looking to do is just recess the sliding door frame I am now looking at at just packing timber out bolted to the I beam as per image.

Thanks cdbe The twisting is an issue I'm worried about also so the bracket will be replicated on the other side. There are some dual beams on the long side that are 150mm wide. So attaching to them will mean no way it can be twisted. I know replicating all those brackets is a lot of work but I...

Saying "it will not work..." is not an explanation why. Just saying NO it's impossible is not helpful I see a few options like the one below

Thanks The info being asked for is in my original post but here is a new image that spells it all out The only loading is the roof and fascia

Thanks Yes in that image, how to secure them is my question. Cheers Tim

Thanks, The doors and walls are not relevant to the question. My query relates to the connection of canterelevered joist to the I beam. Tim

Hi all I'm looking to see if anyone has any suggestions on how to solve a problem I'm going to be building an extension to my kitchen. Its current design has a beam over the sliding door and the joists that stretch from the house connect to it. Due to my design requirements I need the top...

I'm going through the same thought process. 20+ years back I built my workshop on paving slabs. I placed them around 1.5mtrs apart and then used bricks to hold up wooden frame. So that we can rule out that method I have to say that while the structure is still standing I had heavy machines...