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Can I find the leak by spraying some soapy water on the pipes or is it once it’s empty of refrigerant there’s nothing more coming out? Everything looks quite clean tho no corrosion I can see.

Hey thanks! I’ve read that a refrigerant leak could be the cause, is that a suspect because of the constant bubbling sounds at the back? it was running fine for years, do the leaks just appear like that out of the blue? Can I test the levels somehow? I don’t know if it is related but we had a...

Hey thanks for the reply! It’s a 50/50 fridge freezer, I started a thread on it here - https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/everything-is-running-but-no-chilling-at-all-in-either-fridge-or-freezer.629507/

Yes so it’s all running but it’s warm inside, the fridge went first, the freezer stayed cold but not frozen for a couple of days, cold air blowing from the fan and then it went warm too. There is a constant gurgling/liquid cascading/bubbling type sound coming from the back. It’s not super loud...

Thank you harry for your help and everyone else too. I just got another washer, I spent too much time in trying to make the broken one run and people needed to wash their clothes. The one I got was cheap so was easier that way, even tho I really wanted to fix it. Oh well. My fridge has now...

What could cause the motor to be fried? It’s not obvious to me harry this is my first experience with a malfunctioning washer and an electric motor. Thanks!

Ah yes ok I’ll try that but that means the motor could be fried?

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Does that mean disconnect them? If so no I haven’t. What is it you’re thinking?

Thanks for your help harry and all others too. No they were the right way in the ends of the carbon brushes were just a different angle than the commutator. Anyhow I’ve taken them out and sanded them down to an angle so they are flush on the commutator but now when I plug the machine in it...

Ahh right then. Thanks harry.

Right gotcha. The contact point where a brush touches the commutator is referred to as the commutating plane. To conduct sufficient current to or from the commutator, the brush contact area is not a thin line but instead a rectangular patch across the segments. Typically the brush is wide...

I took it off again after he first wrote that to make certain the angle they are shaped coincides with how I mounted them and it is the same, it’s just that it isn’t as sharp of an angle, they’re mounted properly as well with the two small securing posts on the plastic shell of the carbon...

Hi thanks. Yes I know it is made from copper but it’s a well used machine wouldn’t the copper become darkened from use? Or you’re saying even in well used machines the commutator should still be copper coloured? Is it normal procedure to sand them down to fit the commutator?

These ones are the old ones the ones on the machine are the new ones.

Should the commutator be copper coloured?

These are compatible brushes for my machine they’re a match to ones I took off. Blurry photo??? That photo is crystal clear and well lit, I even used a secondary light source than just the flash! it’s a gorgeous picture.

Ok without doing anything other than checking all the connections again and they were the same as before, the power is back on and I just got a small shock from touching the frame is that normal? Ok I selected a program ran it the pre wash water came on then the main wash water started but only...

Heater element are the wires right? I forgot to take a picture before disconnecting but the way they were all sitting, bent into place, from being hooked up before was still present.

I took every connection off of the element then ran the washer it shorted out. what wrong with the angle isn’t that the position it should be in? I replaced the brush from there in the same position. Would that cause the machine to not turn on and buzz then switch off?