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I know where your coming from, I just thought from a regulation point of view that you had to (but i may be wrong) i'm sure that if it's remote you do but if adjoined you don't but i might be talking B@ll0cks! and i apologies if I am

your appliance will draw 5 Amp can you give a bit more details of what your planning please

see what size cable feeds your shower - if 6mm then no more than 7-7.5KW at a push or if 10mm you can go higher if you want

if your back box has a 'fixed' matal screw lug you don't have to take the earth to the box as the fixing screw with provide the earthing however it can't do any harm. if you have two adjustable lugs you must earth the box. i would take the earth of the cable to the plate switch and then to...

If I was you I'd invest in a new ceiling pendant set £1.30 which has insulated live terminals rather than just a piece of copper that you can touch like yours!!!

I have a dining room similar in size which has 8 lv downlights and thats not overly bright. Depends on how bright you want it. dichroic all have slight differences but also depends on the beam angle (narrow or flood)

you have done the most common problem people do with lighting, although it normally ends with the fuse blowing! your cables are normally you have red & black or if newer brown & blue perminate feed in (red) neutral in (blue?) switch feed (red) going to the switch switch return...

No problem provided they have the correct IP rating see here http://www.niceic.org.uk/nonapproved/earthbond.html

If your garage is remote to the dwelling it SHOULD be connected to the RCD side as it's outside the equipotenial zone

Bathrooms now require 'ZONE bonding' which is a cable that links all pipework and electrical circuits together the size of which is 4mm (unprotected) or 2.5mm (if protected by conduit or other means) This earth cable (green/yellow) has to link to ONLY 1 point of each circuit and all the...