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It is. I did one a long time ago, total PITA. You need to remove the female tail from the rad, no mean feat when it has been there for 30+ years and remove the male nut and olive from the pipe which may or may not damage it. 9 times out of 10 the valve is recoverable, they were built to last...

And the rest. RAVLs were marketed between 1979 and 1986 !

Danfoss RAVL valves. You can remove the gland - the nut the pin sticks out of - without draining down, a dribble will come out, then remove the pin, clean it up with a bit of scotchbrite, slap a good splodge of silicone grease around the pin and put back in. I did mine last week, hour and a...

I have (antique !) Danfoss RAVL TRVs on my rads. The actual valves and heads work fine but the pins are a bit sticky so I have managed to get some 013U0070 gland seals. Now comes the problem. The pins on the old glands are long 2mm dia and slide inside the hole in the valve insert, the new...

Sorted thanks all. It was all about technique, gently under the edge of the slot using another screwdriver handle as a fulcrum and the cover just flicked off.

Yes they are my photos I already posted elsewhere.

Nope, that is inside and no screws / fasteners or caps covering holes anywhere inside or out.

No pins / allen screws, that is what is perplexing me as all references to Hoppe handles have screws. I will give it another go when I am there again.

Any special technique because I have tried that to no avail ? Is it just clipped on to the plate and the handle and cover come off the backplate and bar in one piece

Have a Hoppe concealed fixing door handle that has come loose. Searched the web for a clue how to remove it but can't find anything. There are no visible screws or pins. Help please