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Since the patches are not wet to touch, it might still be a moisture issue from poor ventilation and cold walls, not just water ingress. You are running a dehumidifier, but maybe look at adding an extractor fan to this room. I'd definitely check the exterior of the house first for bad seals...

Your builder is only partly right here. Yes, you can change your garden level, but you can't push soil up against your neighbor's fence. A fence is not a retaining wall and will fail.

You can just use MDF or moisture-resistant plywood, screw it together, and then tile it or paint it to match your bathroom.

That rough look and mixed-up brick pattern likely mean this is an infill. When someone reduces the depth of a chimney breast, they often just patch the hole with whatever brick bits fit. That area was never meant to be exposed, which is why it doesn't have the clean stretcher bond you'd expect...

Brick slips might look okay, but it is an extra layer that could cause issues later. Maybe a compromise would be to just clean up the bricks as best you can and then see what a low-level plinth render looks like, not a full skirt. It would protect the base and still show more of your original...

Old lintels can be porous, especially if the paint has flaked off, so rain could soak through and work its way down inside the wall. Masonry paint will help, but it might not fully stop it if the brick or lintel itself is very porous. You could consider adding a small flashing or drip edge above...

That staining on the stone pillars looks pretty interesting, especially since it's so high up. It's too high for normal dampness or people touching it.

I wouldn’t seal that with expanding foam. Boilers need a clear path for ventilation, and blocking that gap could cause bigger safety problems.

Applying the Zinsser paint after cleaning is good, but check if you are adding extra moisture by drying clothes inside, or if large furniture is blocking airflow to that cold wall.

This is a tough spot, but it sounds like you have a strong defense here. You tried to inspect the issue and they blocked you, which hurts their case for non-cooperation. Since your guarantee covers damp proofing and not general condensation/mold issues, you are likely in the right, but you need...

I’ve done a fair bit of lead pointing and had the same issue. I found it helps to use smaller amounts at a time and pack it in gently rather than piling it in. Keep a damp sponge or rag handy to clean any stray smears right away. Tool it down slowly, and try not to drag your finger across the...

You can overhang a little, but only if the floor framing is strong enough and you keep the overhang small. Most people use cantilevered joists for this, but it has limits and you need the right spacing and length. If you want more than a small bump out, it’s usually easier to pour a bit more...

You’re right to start with removing the wood and using a dehumidifier. Those help a lot with keeping it under control. The HG remover should work fine, just make sure the area’s well ventilated.

SBR can help reduce vapour transmission, but it’s not really a substitute for a proper vapour control layer. It’s difficult to get a completely even, continuous coating, any small gap could let moisture through and cause condensation issues. If fitting a plastic membrane is too tricky, you...

That’s a lovely space to work with! The patio and lawn already have nice proportions! You could make the upper patio feel more private by adding a couple of raised planters or tall pots with bamboo or ornamental grasses. It’ll give you that “in the garden” feel instead of “on top of it.”

Building Control may be right to flag the excessive notching. It can significantly weaken the cantilevered ends and compromise structural integrity. You’ll likely need an engineer’s assessment to justify it, with calculations or reinforcement details (like adding steel plates or sister joists)...

That looks like a solid start, Matt — your layout is already better than many first builds. Adding noggins is a good call, especially with that ceiling height; place them roughly halfway up (or at 1200mm intervals if you want extra rigidity). Staggering them slightly makes fixing easier later...

You’ve done solid prep work already. Since the wall is tanked, you can fix Celotex over it with foam adhesive, just avoid puncturing the membrane. No need to re-render if it’ll be hidden. Leave a small air gap behind the insulation and put a vapour barrier on the warm side. Your plan for a stud...

A post hole auger will help, but it might not be ideal for continuous trenches since it makes round holes. You could use it to break up the clay first, then shovel out the rest. If space allows, a micro digger or even a narrow trenching spade could save effort too. And if the clay’s really hard...

That white growth does look like it could be fungal activity from past damp. Possibly early dry rot mycelium or another wood-decaying fungus that’s since dried out. The fact that it’s brittle, chalky, and snaps easily suggests it’s inactive at the moment. Active rot usually feels soft, cottony...