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@mitchino I appreciate this might be a long shot, but was wondering how your tray as held up? I’ve got a similar tray that I’ve just taken up from a first shot of mortar. Mix was too wet, and just didn’t feel right after a day, so looking at other options. Mines a very similar looking base, so...

Quite possibly. However if that is the case, then again, it would make me question whether or not this is the right system for us. I know my wife will want a bath much hotter than how that came out. I don't think there's any harm in replacing the blend valve, for the sake of around £100 and...

:D OK so a little update. Shut water off today, added 4 isolation valves to the feeds for the bath H & C and shower H & C. Replaced the bath mixer with a couple of (cheap) single taps. All connected back up, switch water back on (no leaks) and... Hot water to the bath! Well, I say hot water...

Just checking out the bath mixer now. No isolation valves (of course!) but the HW feed that comes into the bath tap is directly tee'd off just before that for the shower feed. Showers keep HW coming through, bath does not. I'm wondering if the mixer is somehow drawing cold in?

OK. Well to be honest, from everything I've learned from this thread, I'm feeling happy to stick with what we currently have. It's taken a bit to get my head around how it works, but if I'm understanding a thermal store correctly. The water in the tank is the what is pumped around the central...

Thanks, that's a good run down. I work from home, two kids so we use a decent amount of water. Tanks have always worked well for us, so reluctant to change. AH ok. That's what I meant, with changing to an unvented cylinder, the rads would be heated from the boiler. I was aware that there would...

So the boiler is providing the heat to the rads right? Doesn't it also pass through the cylinder in a coil?

Can I ask what? Everything I'm usually told points to them being more efficient etc etc.

Am I missing something here? The cylinder would, would it not?

That seems more like the prices I would have expected. The other option for us is to rip the whole lot out and replace with a combi. That's what a lot of the engineers that have visited have recommended (although their possible failure to diagnose our current issue correctly leaves me unsure)...

Running them both together at the same time, they both start hot and shortly after they both go cold. Switching the bath off then and leaving the shower running, the shower starts to heat up again.

Straightforward mixer. Agree that would be worth checking, but then that doesn't explain the fact that the HW pipe, just after the blending valve, gets cold after running the bath tap for a minute.

It just seems to be the bath taps.

Screenshot 2021-02-18 At 10.44.59 by shorn posted 18 Feb 2021 at 10:55 AM Just had a look at the blending valve, and starting to understand it a bit better. So I've marked where the cold feed comes in. This comes up and mixes with the hot water that's coming out at the valve. Just tested and...

I think that's worth changing the blending valve as a first step. Seems to make sense and now I look at it, looks obviously that is what's leaking. From looking at it seems a simple replacement. Three compression fittings right? or am I misinterpreting it (always a possibility )

Sorry, I realised that I never added that to the original post. We were told this was due to the tank being scaled up. To be honest, I'm not sure what's the best way to tackle this. Is it worth replacing the blending valve? As you can see from the photos the pipework is a bit of a mess, but if...

OK, so the more I read about how a thermal store works, the more it doesn't seem to fit with the current issue we're having. Currently the main issue we have is that the we can't run a bath. After running the hot tap for about 30 seconds, the water turns cold. However we can run the showers...

Not sure I understand? Would changing to a standard HW cylinder not take care of that?