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Yes, the strength aspect was a concern. Perhaps I'd be better off moving the window to butt up to the door frame and aligning the tops. Thanks for the input and suggestions.

Thanks, I didn't think of faking it. Would it be stronger to have mortar perps though?

I'm currently building a workshop as a retirement project (brick outer skin, ultralite block inner skin) , and I have a 215 mm gap between a window and a door. This may be a stupid question, but should the bricks in this small gap be whole or should I keep the bond and use adjacent half-bricks...

Wired up as Ian suggested, Live and Neutral in with the existing L & N, and replaced the red loop between 3 & 4 on the boiler with grey and black from the COM and NO terminals on the thermostat. All working a treat. Thanks, Ian. Trev

Thanks for the replies, and to clarify, Ian, are you saying I need a 4-core-and-earth cable, doubling up the existing boiler Live and Neutral terminals with the L and N from this new cable, and using whatever 2 wires that are left to replace the loop currently connecting 3 and 4 on the boiler...

Hi All, I have a Vaillant TurboMax Plus combi boiler to which I intend to connect a Salus RT310RF thermostat, hopefully without frying the PCB. Just looking for confirmation that this is the way to do it.. 1. Switch off power supply to boiler. 2. Wire up thermostat with 3-core-and-earth 1mm...

Hi Bernard, thanks for your reply. The bulb itself has "240V 50W" printed on it, the GU10 it plugs into has "2A 250V~" markings, and I don't believe they have convertors.

Hello all, I was hoping someone might be able to help me with a halogen downlights issue. I have recently had cause to move a 2-gang light switch. One switch powers the outside security light, the other switch powers 3 x 50W halogen downlights. This is the only switch on a dedicated 6B MCB...

Hi Well, I must be doing something wrong, because no matter what I do I don't get any readings on the meter. Touching the 2 probes together gives a resistance of about 7.5 to 8, but touching the red probe to the red wire and the black probe to the black wire simultaneously (of each cable in...

Ok, I think I understand that, thanks for your patience. Now if I could just clarify a few things.... I have identified a section on the multi-meter for measuring ohms, it's the green bit :) Three choices, X1, X10, X1K. That's like a strength setting, huh? Don't know how many ohms I'm...

Well, yes I do have a multi-meter, but I have only ever used it for testing dead batteries. So you've lost me a bit after "split all 4 wires out" - if I were to use the ohms range test (haha, sounds like I know what I'm talking about, but I don't!) with the red and black cables and the light...

Yeah, sorry, seemed to be a different subject suddenly :) so I thought a new thread was called for. Thanks for your help tho' Trev

I've undone the light connections (well, the earth just broke actually), but the brown flex from the light was going into the leftmost terminal with the red wire, and the neutral from the light was attached to the same terminal as the black wire 3rd from the left, next to the green :) Hope...

Hello again, I have now had a closer look at the light fitting wiring, which is actually working, but I'm a bit confused. The switch contains two wires, a red and a black, with the black going to L1. I'm happy about that, although I thought the black wire should have a bit of red...

Photo of the terminal block - I can see a green wire going in from above on the right, so that should be OK to wire into the new rose. And this is what I will be fitting... It lets you slide the light bulb/cable/shade out of the rose, seemed quite a clever idea at the time...

Thanks for the reply. This is the old light fitting, and I was hoping to replace it with a new one I've bought which also requires an earth. So the whole thing will be going, apart from the cabling. Which means the earth will not be able to be attached using the spade grip washer type thing to...