Search results

No - you'll probably hit rebar and/or crack the post. You're better off screwing battens into the panels themselves - assuming they're your panels and not the neighbours?

I'd tend to agree although if you end up needing a new blade at 16:10 on a Sunday it's worth knowing - my old blades end up either as scrapers or I take a grinder to them to give them coarse teeth for cutting plasterboard etc.

also you can use a marking knife instead of pencil - ideally a single bevel blade.

cut slightly oversized then plane to final dimension on a shooting board with a depth stop.

What I'm trying to say in a very long winded way is that the wifi boost function of your powerline adapters may effectively be slowing down your wifi to the degree that it's actually slower than your internet connection so try turning off the wifi boost function on the adapters if you can and...

Depends on what kit you've got and what you're sending across your network - if you have a media server etc. then you may want to try and get your LAN up to gigabit speed, if it's just streaming from the internet then your internet connection should be your limiting factor. But...having played...

They're not repeaters AFAIK - they form a MESH wifi network with the Q hub which is different from a repeater etc that you'd buy from PC world etc.

If you can run an actual ethernet cable between the router and where you need the connection then try to use a CAT6, then plug that into an a switch (5 port gigabit unmanaged) then connect up the PS4 and firestick with either Cat5e or Cat6. If you're talking about running cable from the...

anyone tried waxoyl instead of paint - no good if it's on view but seems to be very resilient

This! (y)

Broadlink Rm Pro+ Not a remote that you pick up and carry around but worth looking at?

Beware on amazon - there's quite a few on there that claim to be Cat6 but if you go through the reviews you find someone has discovered they're CCA (copper clad aluminium) not solid copper strands as required under the CAT6 standard.

I'd say you've got a few options depending on what level of access you have to run cables etc, generally it's best to avoid plugging your router into anything other than the master socket: Run a longer ADSL (RJ11) cable to where you want to place the router, you normally get provided something...

OK I may kick the apple cart over here but I've got a cross line level from Lidl for £19.99 (available on ebay for 15.99 upwards) - it's got a standard (camera) tripod thread on the underside and my unit at least works a treat. I tend to pop it on a cheap photography telescopic light stand and...

I know! :LOL::LOL::LOL: My point was just that if you're not 100% confident in your measurements it's better to buy one door & drawer to check rather then load up the car with a kitchen's worth - yes it could cost a little bit but it's always worth checking the clearance bins at B&Q.

I mean where the holes are for hinges etc - they may vary between homebase and B&Q.

One of my least favourite jobs! I always seem to end up 'finding' a steel with my drill bit - usually covered over with a chunk of plasterboard and a cavity...I've had to use polyester resin before (cheap one shot ones from lidl) to get a decent hold for a curtain pole.

Fair point but it depends how well you trust your measuring skills IMO I'd still only buy one door & drawer to begin with even if the measurements seem to match up.

I take it the carcasses are already in place? It may be obvious but buy one appropriate sized door and drawer front and give it a go from homebase - if it's too much hassle then you can reassess without having spent a load of money.

I'd speak to the paint manufacturer and the bath manufacturer - then see what options you have - nail polish remover can dull the gloss on acrylic so be careful. I suspect you're going to have to use something like a plastic/non scratch scouring pad to remove the paint then buff the acrylic...