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Measure it, it's probably 6mm or it might be 8mm.

'T nut for wood' eBay, Amazon etc , think I've seen them on the shelf in B&Q.

Well I wouldn't do that yet, as soon as the OP contacts the local authority any indemnitys won't be permitted.

I bought some non genuine ones for a Megane once, about a month later one of them failed and the glass shattered when the boot slammed shut, I bought genuine ones after that.

You would need a lintel or be able to prove it doesn't need one.

I've edited my post to make it clearer.

You'll want polished edges or the sawn edges will have the cut marks and will look opaque.

Got some photos?

Friends, family, neighhbours recommendations, Facebook Local Group recommendations etc. Definitely not Checkatrade or Mybuilder type websites.

Oh no, last thing you should be doing to find someone.

Any perspex or clear plastic type will do fine but anything will get scratched eventually but not much if you're only placing objects on top. That said, of the plastics available acrylic is clearer and more scratch resistant and less prone to UV damage but for your purposes I would just buy...

£20 on ebay if that's any less painful.

They look fine to me too.

You might get such screws individually off the shelf in a B&Q but you'll pay a premium for it. Or do you have a Selco near by? https://www.selcobw.com/vortex-power-screw-6-x-200mm-pack-of-15

Always a danger of cracking the slabs in that situation, ideally the post bases would have been bolted directly to the concrete through holes in the slabs, the bases will be sure to flex a little when the posts are lent on, I'd have gone with bigger fixings than that. Or the posts would have...

What's the difference between that and a FF being installed in between two full height kitchen units? If you're that worried fit a ventilation grille in the roof panel.

What type of drill and drill bit (and quality) are you using? It will be a steel or concrete lintel. What is the wall construction?

You don't normally have a lead flashing on a door, however you do normally have a projecting cill that overhangs the upstand (which you don't have), then some sealant is used to seal the junction underneath between the cill and the upstand. The roof should be falling away from the door to...

Is this just for air tightness or fire too? I don't think you'll find something designed specifically for that task so getting one with a BBA cert seems unlikely IMO. Perhaps something like...

Was it a joinery company or a timber window company?