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yep standard 1/2'' ball valve ,,,if i remember correctly B +Q do a ball valve service kit which contains everything to overhaul the ball valve,,,

my view is i dont care how expensive the part is ,its not my money ,but i will only fix 1 fault ,any other unrelated faults will be quoted for... ~?(and im an engineer who has been pulled in and warned that my output is too low for their current performance structure)~?

as above its probably the 'o' ring gone on either the flow or return pipe where it connects into the boiler ....if that is it new exchanger req then as well as 'o'rings and flue seal

Lsx the cheats method ...jetblue is good enough (and cheaper than lsx)

ok ....fan reqs 240v ...if stiff lubeing the bearings can help no permanent pilot .... thermistor can play up.... pcb occasionally has relay sticking ..new pcb solves that .... if pump on and clock on chk 240v at live into chb ..chk 240v at fan also the air press...

At BG we record prv terminations as NCS if incorrect termination ,,also occasionally AR if left in a dangerous condition ...its better to record it than miss it and the crap hits the fan....

maybe thats why rads are hung off the wall on brackets,,,,,rather than being bolted flush to wall .....

it will be the diaphragm gone in the end of the diverter valve .....new valve or service kit it will be.......

g10 burner seal gone and condense backing up is my guess .....

ok .. a basic back boiler system would have been installed on a gravity pumped pipework set up... where the pump is the only control and that is powered for radiator circuit only ... the hot water circuit will run to the temperature of the back boiler thermostat setting ....so you get hot...

in bristol its going to snow tonight ....keep the condense pipe internal it keeps us warmer!!!!

if your boiler is a combination boiler then shutting the rising main stopcock and opening the taps upstairs and down stairs will vent the pipework ,remember to fit service valves under the new tap assembly ,,, switching the water back on will blow any air thru the hot water side of the...

those old springloaded pressure releif valves tend to leak fairly often so if the system is open vented the valve can be removed and the tee capped with a 1/2inch bsp plug (or 3/4inch plug on some)

ptfe tape on olives normally works

pump may be intermittently cutting out, although probably a restriction around the cold feed /vent pipework,,,,1st chk would be to look at pump , and maybe change the boiler control stat to stop overheating....

i can beat you i've had 2 isars and 1 m3080and 3 icos this week freeze their condense pipes and back fill until leaking from combustion chamber its a very common problem.... at least with worcester boilers they dont lk just get very noisy and cut out when they fill up ..... ...i do love...

your service eng was probably right , The diverter valve if leaking is a real pain to get at and 99% of heating engineers will replace it along with all the 'o'rings around it rather than fit a service kit (BG eng's are encouraged to fit kits but the majority just change the valve as its...

when you look at a radiator there is a trv on one end and alockshield valve on the other if you take the plastic cover off the lockshield valve and shut that as well as the trv you will probably be success ful next time

your grundfos pump is the condense discharge pump, probably the float is stuck down, or broken causing the pump to run continously . they can be taken apart but we just normally replace them as if its happened once it will go again...

pilot injector needs cleaning . ajob for a RGI on a service