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Things have apparently changed since I last picked up the book. You don’t need RCD on lights if you can see the wiring. look in the stickies for wiring diagrams. basically you take the cable sticking out of the wall and put it in a junction box ( since it’s probably not long enough to reach...

Bernard, if he splits the difference and puts the double where the 2 “middle” outlets are out of the 4 ( with a new deep back box with extension rings if needed ) then the cables should be in the safe zone ( albeit coming in at different corners of the back box). Also if it’s in as deep as he...

Backlit mirror? I'm sure you can get ones with an led strip all the way round..

Not recommended.. there are minimum clearances and so on.. plasterboard lining with fire hoods and a fan for ventilation?

To clarify.. the switched live at the fan should be the one that's on when the light is on, the other one is the one mentioned above..

It's the switch end.. take the one which is suppose to be permanently live and connect it to the one in the switch that is permanently live.. ( after checking angturning off the power of course.. )

Provided ther are the same size yes..

Wouldn't a double pole switch get rid of this? Break the neutral and no current flow. But that involves re-wiring probably.

It's been a while since I've peeked at the regs but I thought that fire rated were only needed in a ceiling used as a fire barrier such as a kitchen or actual garage.. where combustion might occur..? If the garage is being converted into habitable space does it still need to be fire rated? I...

Several alarm bells rang on reading that first post.. 1:- "?.. issue with THE socket circuit..." .. there should be at least 2.. upstairs and down.. 2:- "... whereby THE RCD keeps tripping.... "... again, should be at least 2 nowadays especially if... 3:- "The consumer unit was installed new the...

Ah.. I've found the PDF.. turn the switch off.. The humidity is automatic with the switch OFF Turning ON the switch turns on the fan which runs on for the desired time AFTER you turn the switch OFF...

Is there a setup time for the humidity stat? What do the instructions say?

The old extractor had a permanent AND switched live but no timers etc? Strange setup..! The browns in the crimp should be the permanent live, but you'd need to find the supply end to be certain.. depending on who installed it, the grey OR the black could be neutral.. ( don't guarantee that...

Could be the beam angle? Are the replacement ones reflector type?

4 way wago connectors? ( 1 in, 3 out )

Safety's by means of placing out of reach.. ?

Irrelavent as to what "the norm" is in your opinion.. the OP asked about de-rating, not "rule of thumb" circuit design. If you need to use 1.5mm because the calculations say so then you use it.. I was pulling a rough example out of the air. As I'm a commercial / industrial sparky then it's not...

Yes and no.. you have a design current ( e.g. A 20A radial ) and you know that the route / method means you have to de-rate any cable by 50% so you pick the cable size that is rated to at least 40A to start with..

Generally it's done at install.. any de-rating is taken into account and the cable and / or breaker sized accordingly. So you get 1.5mm cables for lights on a 6A breaker.. etc..

If a cable cannot get rid of the heat generated by the current running through it then you have to lower its maximum rating. If it's in insulation for example, or bunched with other cables, or in a hot environment. Likewise if it can get rid of more heat than it's designed for the next you can...