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Thanks.

Hi, I want to install an alarm on my garage. It has a personnel door on the back and a vehicular door on the front. Either are used for entry depending on who enters and what for. I'm planning to put door contacts on both doors and supplement these with two PIRs. There will be one keypad...

Thanks for all your input. I did say initially that I'm going to get a qualified electrician in to do this work. As someone rightly pointed out, the majority of the cost lies in the RCBOs and the labour charge, and I was going to have those anyway. So, I may as well swap the box out for one...

Hi, My new build house is fitted with a Hager VC755H1 consuer unit. It's a dual RCD fixed bus bar configuration CU with 5 protected ways on each RCD and a 100A main isolator. For a few reasons (RCD in series with CU in detached garage, smoke alarms ([on upstairs light circuit] rendered...

Thanks gents. The PCs all have reasonably recent PSUs made by well-respected manufacturers. That's not to say that one hasn't developed a fault but replacement could be an expensive exercise. The immersion, oven and hob are on three separate non-RCD circuits so I think I can rule those...

I have a Wylex (NHRL12SL)split load consumer unit and the two socket circuits are on the RCD side. Just lately the RCD has been tripping out. It will be fine for a day and then trip three times in short succession. I have several computers on the circuits (3 downstairs and 2 upstairs) and I...

Are they safe above fireplaces, what with rising heat and lots of plastic etc ?

I just bridged mine using some of the live conductor that I cut from the cable I was using to connect it. A tight fit but works fine.

Spend the money, buy a decent arm and bolt the thing to the wall. That way you can swing/tilt it to whatever angle you like if, for instance, you feel like lying the other way round on the settee.

Is divorce out of the question?

I have 5 PCs on my downstairs RCD-protected ring and I have no problems whatsoever.

Alternatively: Step 1. Disconnect one of the cables at the old socket. Step 2. Run a new length of cable from that socket to the first new socket. Step 3. Run a cable from the first new socket to the second new socket. Step 4. Run a cable from the second new socket back to the old...

Get some sun. :wink:

OK. I remember where I saw the 25amp rating now. Here.

Isn't 4mm² a little low for a 6.6kw hob? I only ask because I've seen somewhere that it's rated to 25amps/6kw. I understand diversity calcs but wouldn't it be safer to use 6mm², especially if it is protected by a 32amp MCB?

It is the connections at the hob that require attention. You'll need to "pop" the hob out of the worktop as it's connections will be on the underside. Some hobs require that you supply power to two terminals for all rings to work (my Zanussi does).

I was always under the impression that running things in the cavity of cavity walls was a strict no-no. Something to do with possible damp intrusion and rotting of brick ties etc. If your house is only twelve years old does it not have internal soil stack(s), boxed in of course? Mine does...

They're not. And even if they were what would it matter. If you have a wife/girlfriend you never use the damn thing anyway. :wink:

So you'd really only have to disturb the first two metres. A decent electrician will probably be able to fish the cable under the floorboards and then just surface tack it behind your new units. And electric hobs aren't poo, so there. :D

Well, I went through all the diversity calculations and I could have squeezed my 5.8kw oven and 6kw hob onto a single circuit. For anyone to give you further guidance they would need to know for sure what size cable the circuit is run in (tho a 30A fuse looks like it would be 6mm to my...