Search results

About two weeks ago, it cutout mid burn and locked out. Reset got it going again and it would then run for 1/2 days before repeating. Gradually the frequency of cutting out increased until I could no longer reset it and get it going. Reset...simply buzzed then locked out. Saw that the...

The Towerstat RF is junk. There is a s/w bug in it. If the temperature is 16 degrees and it changes state to demand heat, well, it doesn't. Speak to the manufacturers and they tell you to put it in the fridge! Sure...that kicks it into touch and it fires up. But how about being honest and...

Surely you must have an idea of brand ?

Interesting comment...the advert states 1000 lumen per 10W and so if you think that they are telling porkies then that helps me get them to pay for the return postage! Which 50W LED lamps would you suggest?

This one ...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191427037981 Although we live in a very remote area surrounded by fields, I simply want to be able to see clearly if anyone is prowling around in the garden or parking area (which admittedly is quite large). Thing is the 500w halogen allows one to do...

Yes, these are security lights that come on when the sensor is triggered. The low light level from the LEDs are simply inadequate to see anything clearly. The light angle of our LED is much less than the halogen, BTW.

I did some empirical measurements this evening. Desk research suggested that the light output ratio was 2: 1 (halogen vs LED). It is nothing like. Using the lux meter app on the phone and pointing it at the lights. halogen 500w 77 lux unit LED 50W 14 lux unit roughly 6:1 I then...

I know this is a pretty old thread but thought I'd post up my experiences as my requirements were similar to the OP. We have four 500W halogen floods as security lights on the four sides of our house. Light output is very good. But I got fed up of clambering up the ladder to replace the bulbs...

Thanks everyone for the advice.

I used Zinsser because I have a lot more faith in their paints than F&B. I used Cover Plus and the solids in it are amazing. It is oil based and obliterates any existing colour in one coat.

Do you know if you have to sand down the LG after the first gloss coat? F&B say you do. Then you discover just how thin/poorly pigmented their paints are as, even with a very light stroke of fine sandpaper, you go right back down to the Zinsser!

Wooden front door. I'll look into Little Greene paints.

I'm using a dark grey primer/undercoat and it's going over an existing coat of white 'proper' primer from Zinsser. Trouble is Farrow & Ball might as well have made their primer from coloured water, the amount of bleed through from the white. F & B say there is nothing wrong with the batch so...

Bit pedantic?

But if that were the case then how is the pump running when bleeding the radiators any different from the pump running normally? !

You said in your post "1. Hot water can hold more air than cold (so you should really let the system cool down first). " Now you are saying something different. The air at the top of the radiator is already out of the water(if it ever was in there to start with!)....it couldn't care less...

I'm sorry but it is the other way round. Think about it... The amount of gas a liquid will dissolve depends upon the vapor pressure of said gas, which in turn depends upon the temperature. To simplify things a bit, suppose we have pure water. That water has a vapor pressure, and that vapor...

Thanks, Pete You're confirming what the conclusion that I have come to...namely it's an urban (plumbers?) myth.

LOL.... So you don't know the answer either !!

Reading various websites it seems to me that it's a bit like an urban myth. Switch off the CH system before bleeding ....as air can get in. Yet no-one can explain how this particular myth has gained credence. I can understand how it might ...nb might..happen if the pump has been...