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Just to complete the thread. Problem now fixed. 1. Replaced three -port valve with new one (with detachable motor etc). found that this seemed to work fine but no water going through radiators still (even when only one was turned on) 2. Checked the pump connections - power provided at the...

I'm no expert but whilst following some of the advice from some of the others on this forum, I found that the bleed-vent on the hot water cylinder feed was blocked. Made quite a mess when I unblocked it! The hot water system seems to get to temperature more quickly now.

Have definately now cleared one fault, the bleed cap on top of the pipework between the valve and the water cylinder hot input was definately blocked. It isn't now. Lots of air followed by lots of water. Cap now back on, red face but delighted the kids. :oops:

Having now removed the cover and the motor (eventually), there seems to have been a slip of the motor to lever arm mechanical mating although this could have happened during my attempts to get the motor off. I would say that the valve spindle now moves freely about 30 degrees or so (much less...

Have just completed the following sequence: Turn CH and HW off Open Bypass stopcock Close all TRVs (ie minimum temp setting) on rads Turn pump from top speed (3) to minimum speed (1) Turn CH thermostat to max (30 degrees C) Open TRV on nearest rad (bedroom) to full (max temp) Close...

Have taken plastic cover off the valve head but it appears to be the "older" version of the valve which doesnt allow the motor/electrics to be removed easily. This is fastened more permanently to the actual valve body rather than "clipped" on like the ones I have seen for sale as replacements...

Did the above, opened rad downstairs, ran some water out of it from drain into garden and "expansion tank" in loft started to empty until ballcock kicked in. Held up ballcock briefly to watch the water level decrease continue then allowed to fill properly. Hot water still working fine, still...

If the pipe was blocked where you suggest (I will check it Saturday), would this mean that no additional water would get into the system when I last bled the bathroom radiator (at the weekend :shock: ). Am I right in then saying that (possible leap of understanding here from me)...

Should I not have touched the bypass stopcock? It was originally about 30% (two turns out of 6) open, I now have it fully open. How should I (assuming I get the system fixed) dtermine what the correct setting is? remembering that I have no rads without TRVs but the one in the hall...

Again as predicted by Fumb, the pipe does indeed go to every cold tap in the house except for the kitchen tap which is connected to the cold main (I think). Similarly the toilet cisterns are fed from it so it is the main cold-water feed for most of the house. In my previous house...

As predicted, there is a 22mm pipe connecting the two tanks, effectively making them one big tank. This was hidden by the insulation surrounding the two tanks so I hadn't seen it before. Now the bad news - the cold feed to the cylinder definately comes from the tank with the ballcock, not the...

Thanks for the info. None of the tanks in the loft are empty (all three of them - see my other post). I have to admit to having had a fiddle :oops: and the following are further points which may (or not) shed light. Every time I try to bleed the pump I seem to get air out of it, gurgling...

Would'nt that have the pipe from this third tank connected to the same pipe that goes into the bottom of the cylinder (cold feed from what I have read). My cylinder is perfectly visible in the airing cupboard and only the one pipe goes into it from the bottom of the main cold water tank...

In the process of trying to understand my installation to solve the other post I tried yesterday, I tracked the various pipes into the loft. I have the normal large cold water tank and the much smaller expansion / filler tank for the heating. I also have a third tank, the am esize as the...

Have pumped system, mid-position valve and plenty of hot water. As of weekend, no heat on radiators. valve positioning indicator moves to correct place when I select HW, CH or both, but dont get heat to radiator at any position. Components are: Drayton Lifestyle LP241 Controller Drayton...