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I think we should all pay attention to the Orange One's warnings. After all, he was streets ahead on the dangers of Windmills: https://thehill.com/homenews/administration/475701-trump-rails-against-windmills-i-never-understood-wind/

No, sorry, this is more complex, more expensive (16A isolator about 3x the cost of a 6A single pole switch); and clearly more dangerous. Remind me what the benefit is? Yes but having flicked the feeding FCU, they may have good reason to believe it was then safe. Whereas it isn't. You can't...

But in the simpler circuit I've just described, flicking the FCU would also isolate those three fan conductors, and leave the pull-switch wiring dead too, when opened. Simpler, cheaper, safer.

Yes I do understand the diagram, thanks. What I don't understand is what this achieves. As you say, the pull switch serves merely as two single pole switches for the two loads, light & fan. No more isolation that a wall switch does a for light bulb. And this arrangement carries the great...

Yes but the isolator/pull-switch is supplied by the nearby FCU, and when that is switched off, the isolator/pull-switch still has this single live wire. This is what baffles me.

Rear left means looking at the picture I posted, the furthest of the two red wires coming from the left. By isolator I mean the pull switch, as stated it is a 16A isolator.

If this is correct, why do I find a (rear left) live wire in the isolator when the FCU is switched off? Surely the desired complete isolation has failed?

In your diagram, the permanent live from the ceiling rose does go to one of the DP isolator terminals, as you say, then back again so forming a switch for the light. But the permanent live in my pic is the rear/left, a circuit which (by experiment) controls the fan. It is the near/front pair...

Am I correct in assuming it's unsafe because the disconnection of the FCU doesn't leave the Isolator completely safe? I'm glad I always probe with a mains detector even when all should be safe. But that aside, why would a permanent live be on that rear left wire? From the layout of the room...

But the isolator only passes one (switched live) conductor to the fan. The other switched live passes through it to the lights. So it can't be for better isolation, this offers no more than a simple switch would.

OK, so firstly why? The two loads cannot be separately isolated with a double pole switch like this; both on/off together. A single live feed through a single pole switch could have then fed both lights & fan. Simpler, with a cheaper common ceiling switch. Secondly, despite being fed from a...

This is not being used as a true isolator (Live & Neutral), just as a double pole switch separately interrupting live supplies to lights and to fan. This is the reason all cables are red, no neutrals in the switch fitting (see pic). So light pull switch puts on lights and fan together. Fan...

I'm replacing a broken bathroom light pull switch. It also starts the extractor fan, which must have a separate permanent live as it overruns some minutes after pulling the switch off again. I was surprised to find a Double Pole isolator switch, the 16A sort you might use with a wall heater...

OK great. There are a couple of brackets along the tiled/sealed long side, but neither brackets nor wall look strong, as in I don't know if the installer sunk the screws into studs behind the plasterboard or just used plasterboard fixings more designed to hold pictures on walls. So I did give...

Yes I think we are talking about the same thing. If I understand you, once finished, the main panel will be tucked into the lip groove above that I drew in my original pic. The inside wooden blocks you suggest will stop the lower plinth from pushing in too far, and by marking the floor as you...

Are you saying secure the small lower plinth against blocks on the floor, leaving the main panel above (which it overlaps) 15mm proud? That's what I meant by push it out, not literally, but leaving it proud of the lower plinth by another 15mm and so not attached to and battens etc, just slotted...

So with the lower plinth pushing the main panel out by 15mm, I should give up on making a wooden frame to support it?

Which might explain why the previous MDF panel, which was flush with the outer lip (but with small gap), did indeed absorb water, swell up and stick when I tried removing it. Is this 15mm inner groove intended to hold a bath panel? My new plastic composite panel has an adjustable lower plinth...

I'm replacing the long front panel of my bath, using a plastic composite panel which won't swell when wet, as its predecessor did. The new panel, like the old, is about 15mm thick. My question is, should the new panel be flush with the outermost edge of the bath edge, or can it be inset? The...

Just a postscript question. The new drain and trap was all leak free, and I replaced all the silicone seal around the bath top figuring that if the taps end had started to seep (hence black mould on corner wall) then the rest of the silicone was probably not much better. All worked well in the...