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You've answered your own question really. You need to make sure you fill then sand flush.

You can't just paint straight over that and expect it to look 'invisible'. You would need to feather the edges out with some filler to get it to a decent standard. Even then, if you paint over it with any finish that has a slight sheen to it you will still see where you've put it. Personally I...

Will probably bond ok for now but problems may arise in the future as more coats of paint are put over it or wallpaper is hung. The silk emulsion will not penetrate the plaster properly due to it's high level of vinyl content.

It's not the worst I've seen but definitely not the best either. Did you pay a professional dec to do this work? It's caulking by the way :wink:

Ceiling cracks, if not taped first, WILL come back. Sometimes as quick as a couple of days.

Well I don't know what you do for a living so can't say if it would be cheaper for you to bring down the ceiling yourself? It could take 1-2 days for a builder and he might charge you £100 - £400 per day for the work. Based on that you would need to make your mind up that way really. If you earn...

Hi John. That sounds like the oil-based version so will require white spirit to thin it. Easiest way to tell if it's oil-based is what the tin says to wash brushes in. Wash brushes in white spirit = oil-based paint = white spirit to thin paint / wash brushes in water = water based paint = water...

You said in your previous post that you poked at the ceiling and you thought it was going to come down. You can't overboard an unsafe ceiling, you need to start from scratch.

Defo get an extractor fan fitted first. The correct choice of paint will help eliminate future problems IF you use the fan. Acrylic eggshell is perfect (2 coats) for bathrooms.

Painting tiles is probably the worst thing you can possibly paint. It will look awful I guarantee it! If you slide anything over it i.e. chairs, you will mark the paint or even worse remove some of it. If it's for a quick fix to maybe sell your property then go for it but if you intend on it...

For best results. Synthetics - Water-based finishes, Natural bristle for oil-based finishes. Size all depends on what you're comfortable with.

Spot on.

Can't comment on the Johnstones self-cleaning masonry my view was on the standard stuff sorry. Johnstones Trade emulsions are excellent in my opinion but the masonry range let's them down. Wickes sell some very good stuff, don't be put off by the big store image, it is far, far better than B&Q...

I use Toupret but always scrim tape first. If you just fill on it's own you'll be lucky if it lasts a week.

Most of the time yes, a quick de-nib is always good but it also depends how good your brushing technique is (brush marks) and also what paint you're using. You must use the correct grade of sandpaper though or you'll see the scratches through your final finish. It's all in the preparation though...

Johnstones Trade Stormshield (waterbased) is not much cop at all, you'll be looking at 4 coats for a good solid finish, the opacity is terrible. I use Dulux Trade Weathershield either smooth or textured (for filling hairline cracks). I know what dcdec is saying about falling out with Dulux and...

I would look at the Osmo range and see if there's something suitable there. If it was me I would use an oil.

Tape then fill. If you don't they will just keep coming back.

Because underneath the gloss is undercoat :wink:

Not sure about that one?? Any oil based paint will yellow over time whether it be undercoat or gloss. Undercoat sets harder and is a lot less flexible than gloss that is why painters tend to give them 2 coats of gloss, so that the paint flexes as the rads heat up and cool down. You will notice...