Search results

Dosnt sound excessive, if it was dropping more frequently I would check the vessel. as it is dropping slowly I would make sure there's no leaks on the rad valves as these can can easily go unnoticed, make sure to check the gland nuts (the seal from the valve to the shaft) and the pins on any trv's

If it was leaking they would be staining underneath, on the inside of the combustion box. There isn't so I would leave well alone. Why was you looking? Has the pressure been dropping? Might be a idea to get it serviced/checked as you have opened the combustion box up

Wen posting its better if you create a new thread rather than hijacking a old 1 as the 2 alpha boilers are completely different. The diaphragm is used to detect hot water demand, so if the boiler is firing up wen you use the hot water it won't be that. It is more likely to be the diverter...

Flow turbine is a common fault on these, without seeing/testing its what I'd put my money on :mrgreen:

Bg will supply and fit hive for around 200, it's basically a wireless programmable stat which allows you to control heating/hot water with ya phone or tablet

Tbf dan is right but it is nice wen ya really can't be arsed to move 😁

There is more control with the hive, you can set up ya on/off times and temps using ya phone or computer (from memory you can also do this with rhc), ya can set notifications for wen a certain temp is reached, or use your location, I would say the main difference is you can control your hw with...

Theoretically yes it would work as long as the log on details are given to you and bg don't cancell it at there end. Hive is on offer for 149 fitted if ya get ya energy from them

Hive is nothing like a Drayton programmer, are you sure ya not confusing bg's earlier version called remote heating control??

Just out of curiosity what are bg's servicing procedures?

I will say yes you will save money, not on gas but on repairs. where I work we have loads, they are like dog sh!t on ya boot what ya cant shake off!

easy way to test is to isolate the cold mains into your boiler and open a hw tap - does the tap still run? try the mixer on the shower in different positions whilst checking the hw tap, if it does run you have a fault with ya mixer. does the hw get hot if you run the tap/shower at lower rate?

I am presuming its the dhw thermistor on a ideal isar? - isolate the power supply and the cold mains and open hw taps - remove front and bottom covers, followed by securing bracket (underneath boiler - fitted with 4 screws) - the thermistor is fitted in the r/h manifold, remove securing clip...

I think dan was answering the "am I nuts" question

id buy a roll of 10mm copper pipe and a reducing olive kit for the trv

wen posting on here you are better off not mentioning bg as most of the people that reply let there dislike of them cloud there judgement. there tunnel vision then normally redirects the entire post to another bg bashing. (see above) if you can be more specific about the part you require I...

judging by how close it is to the bath it prob should be boxed in anyway!

Does the boiler lockout? If so which light is flashing red??

why wont they do the job? if ya cap the outlet of the trv ya can still remove the head of the valve

sounds like the timer has been wired incorrectly, from what you say he has made the hw on permanently live