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An anomaly in the design of this and most other 3-port valves is that the valve stays at the CH position at the end of the heating period (usually because the HW is hot by then), and stays there until the next call for hot water - possibly the next morning. The buzzing is the synchronous motor...

I'd say just as you did, pipes expanding & contracting. Just after hot water is drawn will be the noisiest if it is. Test by turning the boiler temperature (CH) down low. With the flame off and the pump running it will separate the mechanical noise (water moving, air in pipes, resonating pipes)...

Assuming you meant it's a 10-16 boiler you should check that the flow & return pipes are connected correctly; or more relevant perhaps, has the pump been replaced recently, and is it installed the correct way around! Otherwise it may be a case of sludge in the boiler. There are various...

Power at the pump terminals? Pump running? Water turned off elsewhere ????? :oops: MM

Try ChrisR's tests. Start, say, at 9pm Boiler OFF for 3 hours - what's the pressure at midnight? Shut BOTH boiler isolation valves. Wait 6 hours. What's the pressure at 6am? DON'T TOP UP. Open the valves. If the pressure shoots up it's a boiler leak, conversely if it falls there's a system...

If the pilot is lit and it keeps sparking then the pcb has a fault - and requires changing.

If it's sparking at the pilot there is a chance the GV has failed or, as has been said, the pilot injector is blocked. Does the pilot show even the faintest sign of trying to light when it sparks? If so you MUST get a CORGI installer in to fix it (blocked pilot injector). If not check there...

This is an old model, quite complex in the number of components, but not unfixable. As long as you dont disturb the inner combustion chamber cover, or touch the gas supply I have the following tips:- 1. With the outer cover off there is a stainless steel disc arrangement at the bottom of the...

Total flowrate = hot flowrate + cold flowrate So if you get 18 l/min at the hot tap to, say, the bath, what do you get at the bath's cold tap with no hot running? What do you get at each with both taps running? Is there a flow restrictor on the boiler cold water inlet? 2.5 bar at what...

My guess, given the limited information, is that the "HW OFF" signal is missing (wire missing? from terminal 1 on the programmer?), or the HW two port valve is not generating the "I'm open" signal on its orange wire. MM

Not a bad gauge if there's a whizzy (non-technical) meter rather than a digital one, and the washing machine, microwave, dryer or kettle aren't on..... ....but that leads to the question what do you do if it's failed; and more to the point, why ask you to check it if you can't legally change it?

No change then? Or did you mean to say the heating system has stopped working now? If so (and there are some assumptions because you are over the water) check the system pressure and top-up as neccessary. MM

Combi will probably sort out your low pressure troubles, but a 28kW model, for a few pounds more, will give superior hot water preformance. Whichever you decide you will probably have to uprate (increase the size of) the gas supply pipework. Can you identify a clear route from the gas meter all...

Leaving aside the issue of whether your neighbour would want to look at the wife, try removing the shower head and laying the flexible hose (if it's a flexible type) into the shower tray. Does the flow of hot increase? Does it gurgle shortly after starting to flow? If so look at the supply...

Jake, I suggest you turn off your new shiny stopcock, disconnect the outlet from it, and attach a hose. Discharge the hose into a bucket outside and turn on the stopcock. Any stones in the bucket? Is the flowrate good? If so there's a partial blockage between there and the boiler (assuming it's...

Tony, the most obvious thing to check is that there is water in the system. If so why is the pump getting so hot? Is the pipework each side of the pump also hot? I think not! So bleed air from the pipework high points, and from the pump. Check the pump rotates freely (could it be seized?) Is...

Just a word of caution along with some hints and tips. First, and most important. Don't take the cover off the boiler; this is a positive pressure boiler, and if the case seal is damaged it will discharge products of combustion into the room where your daughter is sleeping. So here are a...

Could be the TRV (if that's what you're calling a "term") is stuck shut. Take it's head off and see if the pin moves in and out about 3 mm under hand pressure. If not it's probably stuck down; search for the solution on here, exact method depends on make/model of TRV. MM

As vague questions go, that's a good one! There is a switch on the front, is that on? There is a temperature dial on the front, is that set to, say, 50% of max? More likely has the power been turned off for the whole heating system, in which case find the timer/programmer and check for...

Name them here, then make a complaint to trading standards. Don't expect results though, unless you have proof they would charge you that much for a pump, i.e. written quote. There are laws which prevent excessive mark-up on parts, but they are much more lenient on the supplier if they are...