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OK, thanks for your help, just one more question, currently we have just a fuse box that feeds the igniter for the current gas hob, what type of box should i buy to replace this ? This is the box

OK, so just so i am clear, the cable i have should be fine to run both the induction how at 7.2KW and a double oven at 5.6kw ?

Ok, the cable appears to be 14mm x 8mm !

Haha, i could swear i had written it above, anyhow the now sacked kitchen fitter told me LOL, i will measure it in a short while after i pick my young one up, thanks again though.

How do i tell if i have 10mm2 cable ?

Thanks for the reply. The kitchen fitter (who we are not using now) was getting somebody to do the electrics as he didnt have the relevant qualifications, i was just wondering as i need to order the appliances soon, I'm happy with the gas hob but my wife has fallen in love with one of...

We are having our kitchen re modelled and have just found that we have a 45amp switch with a 10mm cable under the present gas hob (this is not over the oven and is at the other side of the kitchen), the oven has the same cable size and when you turn the oven off at the consumer unit it turns off...

Thanks, your my hero :mrgreen:

Its one of these (but with a led) Thanks for the answers.

Hi, just have a query over a 45a switch I was going to swap over today, when I unscrewed it I could see that the load and feed on the neutral side were crossed over, I. E live went to load side but the neutral went to the feed and vise versa, this socket only feeds the igniter to a gas hob...

thats the thing, the part is very hard to get too !!, does anyone know if theres a fitting guide somewhere ? thx

yeh, just checked and the unit says v4073a, so do i just need this part ? http://www.uk-plumbing.com/honeywell-40003916003-replacement-powerhead-for-v4073a-p-1402.html thx again

yeh, very fiddly as when it was built they made it near impossible to get too !!!, where will the model number be on the unit ? anyone recommend a good plumber in the Nottingham region ?

ok found the lever and pulled it into manual, when i do so the heating clicks on and the room thermostat now works as usual , but the switch keeps wanting to move back, and even when clicking it into locked position it doesn't go back far enough to keep the heating on, so does this mean a whole...

hi, thx, sorry for the misunderstanding, i really dont know anything about plumbing so im a little confused, i just want as much info as i can before i call in a plumber as i dont want to be ripped off ps is the diverter valve the same as the 3 port valve ? i have what appears to be this one

anyone ?, is there a way of overriding the motorised valve, i would change the valve but its right behind the boiler and no accessible at all !!! cheers

whose blindly changing parts ?, when helping a neighbour change kitchens i was given there old unit (exactly same as mine) so i tried that on, it did after all just clip on and only took me 1 minute to change it so wasnt a massive job after all Ps thanks to everyone for there help

i didnt say i didnt believe him, he just wrote it with a ?, & i thought he was asking if my system had a motorised valve ?? so i wasnt sure (im no plumber so would not have a clue, hence why im asking here)

ok, well i still cant get the heating to come on ?, any ideas ps i havce tried a new controller and that didnt cure it

is there a way of testing the thermostat ?, when turning the knoball i get is a click around 15 ?, is this normal