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Hi All. I have a flat (3 Bedroom, Lounge Kitchen, Bathroom, Hallway) that is currently supplied by Ecnomy 7 electric. There is no gas supply to the proeprty. The primary heating method is via Storage and convection heaters and Hot water on E7. We are a family with young kids, so the property is...

Hi all. I've seen a very old thread re putting lighting in a garage with no electrics - it's severely out of date. I have a rented garage that sits below some flatlets. I don't live anywhere near the garages. I want to install some lights in there so was thinking of some options: 1. Buy a...

Haha I did think that. Could make a feature of it, although I think it's his bedroom...and he is a naturist / nudist lol

To be fair I wouldn't have a clue. All I know is these are built cheap as anything lol. My only regret is, I didn't want to cut through one of the battons for the cladding, so the TV is slightly more off centre than I feel visually happy with.

Internal ..between two flats

Oh I went strait from the plaster board. I cut a gap in the cladding, and fixed the mount between buttons. I think there was around 20 to 25mm from breeze block to surface of the wall. I could swear I felt the drill suddenly being free at the other end lol.

Hi all done and securely mounted. Thanks! So a few lessons: 1. The 10mm x 95mm mentioned on screwfix website is for the wall plug. Duh! 2. Breeze blocks are only about 100mm. So the 120mm will pop out the other side unless you have a 30mm thick item you are mounting. 3. The screws the corefix...

Hi all. thanks for the responses. The gap between the breeze blocks and plaster board is small - 27mm from wall to surface of plaster board. Apparently the wall mount comes with lag bolts and plugs lag M8x65mm Corefix seems to be the reccomended. What is the difference between Corefix 120...

I'm hindsight I don't recall them all meeting the wall behind the plasterboard lol. So probably not very well

That's probably true. Lol. I just didn't want the tv to the bale that broke the horses back. I haven't got to buying the tv mount as yet as I wanted to work out how to attach one lol. I was hoping for a swivel and tilt mount (not the extend out types). If I am limited then it will have to be a...

Hi all. This has been coveted in similar ways a number of times. My other half lives in a flat that has dot and dab plaster board walls. Some time ago I decided to use reclaimed pallet wood to make a feature wall. The wood is secure with nails on 5 1.5" x 2.5" buttons running vertically...

More than happy doing soldering. Got practice making an 8 x 8 x 8 LED cube. Lol I just wanted a reliable digital led thermometer. They will be used on a fridge bed (for fish) and two lobster holding tanks in a restaurant . The output won't be used at all.

Rather than having chunky terminal blocks I thought if I strip 2 single core cables along the cable I can simply solder the red and black as required, no cuts. The device has no screw connectors.

The version we have is 240v. They will be mounted on a board which is hung. So it can be removed and un plugged. I did think it was odd that they have a red and black, also the instructions said red to live black to neutral, which is so odd. I did forgot if I extend the probe cable, will it...

Hi all. Probably quite a simple question. I have 3 temperature controllers with thermometers. I don't want to use the controllers, just the thermometer). They are all 240v I have mounted them to a board and want to have one 240v cable on a socket to run them in parallel. Question 1: what is...

So both then. I will change the MCB first as that is the more economical and shorter time change. See if that has any impact. Then swap the cable out. Thank you very much

So the wire is the problem? The MCB or both?

I actually think it's the whole wire. The first image is of the trip switch and the second is a length of the wire. All the wires are in trunking, so that temp wont be the actual temp of the wire, more the dissipated heat through the trunking.

Hi all. This flat isnt built very well. I have noticed there is lots of movement in many of the plaster boards around both around the window and some of the walls. I recently had all the windows replaced and now the movement in tge sills is annoying me. See a video here: YT video of play in...

I wanted to double check before changing the MCB. Here is the thermal image of tge shower running 5 mins after someone had been in. Here you see the wire getting warm / hot. Would changing the mcb help? Or do I just change the wire too? The wire is a more expensive job as 10mm is quite expensive.