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was this it? http://www.citroen.mb.ca/citroenet/html/s/sm1.htm

You are thinking of the SM- Beautiful car with Citroen DS running gear, and Maserati engine. Long low body, close to the ground and a glass panel over the front of the car. Citroen bought into Maserati to get themselves some decent sporting engines, and a lot of Maseratis had Citroen braking...

OK, the DS may be a bit old, but they no longer acknowledge the BX which has not been out of production that long! I would argue that hydropneumatic is the ultimate fit and forget system!!!It maintains its ride quality from new over many years, and very cheaply- compare the price of a new...

If it had suddenly refused to start, then yes, but look at the posting-has been difficult for a couple of weeks and then won't start at all. This says glowplugs to me!! This is the time of year when this shows up- most diesels will start through the summer with only 2 or 3 working properly...

These are most definately not the places to take a hyraulic Citroen to!!! Have a look on the andyspares forum likn on my post above to gauge the opinion of Cit owners of Cit dealers.....the spares counters now basically refuse to acknowledge the existence of the older hydraulic...

You need new glowplugs !! You can't tell by looking at them if they work or not, but by the time they are out for testing, you may as well put a new set in. Do not use easystart- it's the kiss of death and strips the oil from your bores. In the long run will end up costing you a lot more than...

Price is about right for a non hydractive non diesel- the diesels fetch more because they go on for ever with little maintenance. The ride will be hard because the spheres are probably flat- 25-30 quid each from eurospares or GSF, but bear in mind that the ride is not as good as a CX or GS...

Read this and all will become clear- the sensible Cit owner always leaves it in gear-modified or not!!!!!! http://www.andyspares.com/discussionforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2824&SearchTerms=xantia+handbrake

At 141000 if the tensioner and water pump have never been done then they most definately need doing!! Its most likely not the belt's fault, but the tensioner seizing or just waving around causing the belts timing to slip. Beemers are quite prone to it at this sort of milage!

This could be absolutely anything, and pumping the accelerator should have no affect on a diesel!!! I would suggest you give it a full service first- all the filters, oil, etc, and run some injector cleaner through it- i suspect that your diesel and air filters are well past their sell by. Does...

Just fit some new discs and pads- a lot cheaper than skimming, etc-get them from euro car parts or german,swedish&french. You can fit them your self in an afternoon. Brake pads no longer contain asbestos, and as a result are a lot harder on the discs than they used to be-57000 is not a bad time...

You don't say how many miles on the clock. Wheel bearings, however, are very unlikely to cause the symptoms you describe; if adjusting tracking makes no difference and just causes the problem to move about from side to side, the most likely cause of your problem is wear in one or both...

Couldn't agree more...........see my post april sometime regarding my boiler. A more poorly designed and Q.C'd piece of electronic gear I have yet to see!!!!

It sounds like an electrical problem; most likely the ignition amplifier is faulty, or has a dodgy connection. I am not sure exactly where it is on a starlet; most likely built into or attached to the distributor body, or somewhere near the coil; a haynes manual would help with the location...

Finally found the time and the fault is now fixed!!!! There were no dodgy joints on the board; it just appears to be a case of sloppy quality control and poor design; I encased the soldered connections of the HT part of the board in epoxy resin, thereby properly insulating it, and the boiler...

With modern cars there is no choke at all in the old sense. Now you have an array of sensors which know what conditions the engine is operating under and feed this back to the ECU. On a cold start the engine/coolant sensor will tell the ECU the engine is stone cold, and the ECU will then richen...

All these things are a complete waste of money and have no place in a modern car!!! At best they at least don't do any harm, at worst they will posen the cat. Most of the formulations go back to the 30's and 40's when fuel was of a much lower quality than today. There were loads of these...

Problem spotted!!! I caught it in the act of not firing up;luckily the pcb is inside a clear case. for the benefit of anyone else with the same problem watch it in the dark. At the bottom of the pcb where the spark igniter plugs in ther is a small air gap; when the boiler fires as it...

Thanks, I will have a look. Looking through this forum there seem to be lots of problems with boards on various makes of boiler; no-one would put up with this on a TV set; perhaps a PCB is not really suited to the boiler environment..............

As a bit of further information, this only seems to happen when the boiler has been standing for some hours and is stone cold. When it tries to start the sparking is very much louder than normal. I then reset it and everything returns to normal and it fires up.