Central heating plan check (with diagram)

[james252]

I'm renovating a 2 up, 2 down victorian terrace and was wondering if any plumbing experts could give my plan the once-over. I've calculated the radiator sizes so I'm confident with the heat outputs, and the boiler is the correct rating.

The only question still in my mind is whether the 20mm 'trunk' lines can be split as shown. I.e. when the feed and return enter/exit the boiler, is it okay to move into a 'T' connection, splitting the flow up (to the 1st floor) and down (to the ground floor)?

All piping is pex-al-pex, with copper tails where it connects to the boiler and radiators.

 

[Hot&Cold]

seems reasonable but use 15mm & 22mm size pipe and fittings,

 

[Nozzle]

Am I to assume your filling loop, filter unit, pump and aut-bypass are all containined inside the "Kettle" package? What about hot water cylinder and associated valves? I think it's conventional to have the non-TRV radiator in the bathroom, the kitchen might already be hot enough from the cooker. That said, if it's a cold kitchen becuase it's poorly insulated or whatever, then go ahead.

(I'm not the plumbing expert you're after, but those are a few components you should also think about!)

Nozzle

 

[Nozzle]

Another one for the experts though - is it best practice to have the expansion tank on hot or cold leg? Your hot leg sees a greater expansion than the cold side does.

Nozzle

 

[james252]

Am I to assume your filling loop, filter unit, pump and aut-bypass are all containined inside the "Kettle" package?

Nozzle

Correct, I'm getting a plumber in to do the 'final' connections. I'm just doing the rough plumbing

I think it's conventional to have the non-TRV radiator in the bathroom, the kitchen might already be hot enough from the cooker.

Nozzle

That's a much better idea, thanks for the tip

 

[james252]

Another one for the experts though - is it best practice to have the expansion tank on hot or cold leg? Your hot leg sees a greater expansion than the cold side does.

Nozzle

The house had a "new" central heating system installed a couple of years ago. Before we renovated the expansion vessel was on the cold leg so I assumed it would stay in the same config. Either way, I've got a plumber to do the final connections, including the expansion tank so I'll leave it up to him. Interested to hear what others think though.

 

[Nozzle]

The house had a "new" central heating system installed a couple of years ago. Before we renovated the expansion vessel was on the cold leg so I assumed it would stay in the same config. Either way, I've got a plumber to do the final connections, including the expansion tank so I'll leave it up to him. Interested to hear what others think though.

I'm interested to hear too. On the flip side, with it on the "cold" side, at least the diaphragm is exposed to lower temperatures perhaps making it last longer. My expansion vessel, and pump, are both on the hot leg, but then it was converted some time before I moved in from vented to unvented (the redundant tank left behind in the roof)

Nozzle

 

[Hot&Cold]

Have you considered which ketel you will have fitted ?

These are oK http://www.intergas-verwarming.nl/ If your considering wifi control,get the product by the same maker.

http://www.intergas-verwarming.nl/consument/nieuws/

 

[james252]

Have you considered which ketel you will have fitted ?

These are oK http://www.intergas-verwarming.nl/ If your considering wifi control,get the product by the same maker.

http://www.intergas-verwarming.nl/consument/nieuws/

View attachment 124256

Thanks for the tip. We're just going to reuse the boiler which was in the house already. It was only fitted last year so is basically brand new.

Also, well done for spotting that we're in NL!

 

[Hot&Cold]

Graag gedaan

 

[Madrab]

The complete CH circuit experiences roughly the same amount of water expansion regardless of where on the system you pick (it's a sealed system!!). The expansion vessel should go on the return side of the system, as suggested the cooler temperature will help extend the life of the vessels diaphragm.

 

[Dan Robinson]

Will also be closer to the pump suction side .

 

[stem]

I think it's conventional to have the non-TRV radiator in the bathroom, the kitchen might already be hot enough from the cooker.

The kitchen is indeed the wrong place to site a radiator that doesn't have a TRV. But the bathroom might not be either. Depending upon the type of controls you are considering; if you have a room thermostat (or thermostats), then the radiator in that area shouldn't have a TRV. Two devices trying to achieve the same thing in the same room doesn't work. They will fight each other.