DIY Attic conversion - Input required

[ibby]

I need some input please,

I will be starting some DIY in my attic and after owning the house for 3 years it is the first time I have been in it.

Orginal construction of the room was slate, but 10 years ago before I moved in the slate was replaced with a concreate tile.

Now it looks like the majority of the orginal roof is still intact but additional support has been installed to stop the roof from bending from the added weight of the new tiles.


Now I understand that I would need to speak to a SE, but would like your input on how the work should be carried out.

thanks

 

[ibby]

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Typically steel beams are positioned at floor level bearing on the outer walls, structural timber stud walls are then built up to the purlins to provide them with additional support. The rafters sometimes need upgrading (usually by installing additional rafters next to the originals and leaving the existing insitu). Then any existing structural members within the loft space can be removed.

 

[ibby]

Typically steel beams are positioned at floor level bearing on the outer walls, structural timber stud walls are then built up to the purlins to provide them with additional support. The rafters sometimes need upgrading (usually by installing additional rafters next to the originals and leaving the existing insitu). Then any existing structural members within the loft space can be removed.

What I didnt check if the new timbers were actually touching the existing purlins.

If I took the above approch, I wont have much of a loft left.
They are at the top most purlin.

(house is a semi detached)

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

What I didnt check if the new timbers were actually touching the existing purlins.

If I took the above approch, I wont have much of a loft left.
They are at the top most purlin.

(house is a semi detached)

This makes no sense to me?

 

[ibby]

sorry mate,

Brown is purlin,
Yellow is stud wall
Blue is steel @ floor level.



confused.

I was hoping to take out the existing timbers and strenghten the rafters.

 

[ibby]

What I didnt check if the new timbers were actually touching the existing purlins.

If I took the above approch, I wont have much of a loft left.
They are at the top most purlin.

(house is a semi detached)

This makes no sense to me?

what other options do I have?

thanks

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

No I'm talking about the existing purlins before you added any additional structure for the strengthening. Obviously all the new stuff that was added that's in the way is gonna have to get removed. Its possible a new steel ridge may be needed. This is what you pay your SE for though.

 

[ibby]

I think I need to see an SE.

I have made contact with someone, who is a registered SE.

Is it normal for them to draw plans for the way the steels need to be installed in the existing setup?

I have never used an SE.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Depends on the engineer and how much you're paying him. Pay the cheapest price known to man and you're not gonna get many drawings. Pay a little extra and you'll be OK. Just talk to a few SE's.

 

[ibby]

Depends on the engineer and how much you're paying him. Pay the cheapest price known to man and you're not gonna get many drawings. Pay a little extra and you'll be OK. Just talk to a few SE's.

Thanks for your help.

I will ask around.

 

[stuartturbo]

I paid about £700 for the SE but this was a non standard conversion as mine is completed with NO STEEL and a full size dormer to the rear.
Most places say steel must be required went wood construction as this will be easier as a DIY and no party wall act required.
I then paid a draftsman £500 as they do 2 differing jobs?? I also got him to deal with Reg's as no planning required.
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