electric gone tdue to plaster

dingbat said:
philipcooper said:
my uncle has just dot and dabbed and plastered my kitchen...

And he used nails? That isn't dot & dab. And he plastered over your bonding connection? Did he say something like, "Oh, that? That's just an earth... it doesn't do anything." While he was about it did he make any other comments such as, "I don't know why electricians and plumbers make so much fuss about all those exams they have to take." or "Chippies? What do they know? They just bang a few nails in." or "Bricklaying? Piece of pish!" or "Kitchen fitting? Nowt to it!"

If so, then he's just as clued up as every plasterer I've ever met. Now you need an electrician to un-break whatever he's broken.

(By the way, I don't do plastering. I don't have the skill... but at least I recognise it and don't claim otherwise.)
he used dry lining to dab it but if the board was slippin a little he put a nail in to secure to the dry lining was set.
 
securespark said:
Give me strength...

The regulations say that the bonding to the water pipe must be accessible for inspection & testing purposes. How do you propose to access it if you've plastered it over?
you can just take that section of paster boards out no problem with a stanley knife
 
philipcooper said:
is that ok using connections blocks insted of crimping

You can, but the connectors ought to be (1) the large 30 amp kind (2) accessible for inspection (sometimes the screws go loose over time) (3) in an enclosure, such as a back-box with a white blank over it.

One of the ways of dealing with this kind of problem is to put a new socket where the damage was, this gives you the benefit of an extra socket as well as somewhere to put the joined connectors.

Is your uncle's name Mr Walker, by the way?
 
JohnD said:
philipcooper said:
is that ok using connections blocks insted of crimping

You can, but the connectors ought to be (1) the large 30 amp kind (2) accessible for inspection (sometimes the screws go loose over time) (3) in an enclosure, such as a back-box with a white blank over it.

One of the ways of dealing with this kind of problem is to put a new socket where the damage was, this gives you the benefit of an extra socket as well as somewhere to put the joined connectors.

Is your uncle's name Mr Walker, by the way?
the cable that got hit was alredy buried in the wall running down from the ceiling and the socket lying just above my worktop i have stripped away the plaster and took out damaged cable replaced using connection.now i need to plaster back over so the wall is flat.i cant have a big bump in the wall.the original cables are buried so why cant these?
thanks in advance
 
philipcooper said:
JohnD said:
philipcooper said:
is that ok using connections blocks insted of crimping

You can, but the connectors ought to be (1) the large 30 amp kind (2) accessible for inspection (sometimes the screws go loose over time) (3) in an enclosure, such as a back-box with a white blank over it.

One of the ways of dealing with this kind of problem is to put a new socket where the damage was, this gives you the benefit of an extra socket as well as somewhere to put the joined connectors.

Is your uncle's name Mr Walker, by the way?
the cable that got hit was alredy buried in the wall running down from the ceiling and the socket lying just above my worktop i have stripped away the plaster and took out damaged cable replaced using connection.now i need to plaster back over so the wall is flat.i cant have a big bump in the wall.the original cables were buried so why cant these?
thanks in advance
 
philipcooper said:
.the original cables are buried so why cant these?

The original cables were solid, without a join, enclosed in unbroken insulation and sheathing.

Your cables are now damaged and have a non-permanent connection, so they're not the same.

If your cables are run in conduit or under capping, or if you want to chase them out again, you might be able to draw a replacement new, undamaged piece of cable down to the socket. That could be plastered over.

But I'm beginning to think you're pulling my leg, so I'll be off to bed now. Good night, and my best wishes to your uncle.
 
JohnD said:
philipcooper said:
.the original cables are buried so why cant these?

The original cables were solid, without a join, enclosed in unbroken insulation and sheathing.

Your cables are now damaged and have a non-permanent connection, so they're not the same.

If your cables are run in conduit or under capping, or if you want to chase them out again, you might be able to draw a replacement new, undamaged piece of cable down to the socket. That could be plastered over.

But I'm beginning to think you're pulling my leg, so I'll be off to bed now. Good night, and my best wishes to your uncle.

i not pulling your leg bud honest i am just keen to understand why and what is the easiest safest way for me to do the job anyway thanks for your help i appreciate it
 

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