I've posted your pictures for you.
So first of all where has the loose wire come from? Based on the fact that there doesn't seem to be live supply connected, I would expect it was in terminal L (or 2 as it is linked to L) which is what you have shown in your sketch. Personally I would have used the brown wire which has been cut off for the live supply, but hey that's just me.
Correct, it was in terminal L, as I pulled it off the wall it got disconnected, so I took a pic before I connected it back up to L
Once you have determined where the free wire came from, it is simply a matter of moving the wires including the 'link' from the Flomaster terminals to the Salus terminals that have exactly the same function. So:
Flowmaster N = Salus N
Flowmaster L = Salus L
Flowmaster 1 Com = Salus Com
Flowmaster 2 Call for Heat = Salus NO
The Flowmaster terminals '1' & '2' are just a simple on/off switch, as are the Salus 'Com' and NO' so can be connected either way around. At the moment the wires in the flow master 1 & 2 are strictly speaking the wrong way around, it doesn't really matter, but personally I would reverse them so that 'Com' is linked to 'L' then it's as per the Salus drawing.
Yes this is what had confused me, I noticed the wrong way round to the schematic too, and figured it possibly did not matter which way round they were connected to 1/2 terminals.
According to the links that you posted, the Flomaster is a Programmable thermostat (ie provides time and temperature control) and the Salus appears to be just a thermostat. (temperature control only)
No, they are both programmable thermostats, by what I can see the underlying software is pretty much the same - set the time, set 6 heat cycles throught the day.
However, you say that you have a separate Honeywell programmer to control the on / off times for the central heating. If so, then a problem may occur if the live supply to the room thermostat comes from the Honeywell. I'm guessing now that the Honeywell central heating is set to be on 24/7 and you use the flowmaster to provide time and temperature control for the central heating
Yup exactly, I suppose the previous electrician wired it in this way as it leaves the ability to use the honeywell to control heating cycles for the water tank - had it been removed this would not have been possible.
If you wish to start using the Honeywell to control the on/off times and the Salus for just the temperature, you may find that when the Honeywell switches off the heating, power is lost to the Salus receiver.
I figured this out with the Flomasta - I keep the honeywell heating on the ON position, and use the water heating schedule as per normal. This then gives continuous power to Flomasta which has its own schedule for radiators.
Whilst it may work OK, generally receivers are designed to be permanently powered, not intermittently powered.
Note, I do not use the honeywell schedule on the radiator side so its permanently giving power to the thermostat. Additionally, both stats have the on/off button which in essence cuts power completely from the stat, the same as me switching honeywell from "on" to "off" for radiators. I understand it may not be ideal but flomasta has worked this way last 5 years or so.
Thank you for your quick response.
