internal/external plastering

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hey fellows need some advice a friend just bought a house and ive been tasked with plastering it inside and out. im time served so it wont be a prob but im 21 and only ever worked on new builds with fresh block walls so need few pointers. its an old council house late built 60s all internal walls are brick they just been tracked and that loosned the mortar plus they wernt that straight any way so i recomended he take it all off so im starting from beginning. heres my theory plz correct as u feel nessacery
1. day before i start im gonna rinse all walls by pouring water down them from a watering can or cup. place not floor boarded, downsatirs ceilings aint boarded an electric not on so dont panick.
2. next mornin im goin to mix some scratch at bout 4:1 sand cement with waterproofer and plasticiser good thin stuff
3. before layin it on im goin to damp the wall with brush and water then unibond with slightly watered good sticky stuff.
4. im goin to fill out hollows and staighten scratch to make next coat easier applied
5. after carrying this process out whole way through house probably take few days ill go back to the first room i scratched which should be cured enough and start floating .
6. the floating stuff will be mixed 5:1 sand cement with just plasticiser then straightenen with aluminium edge and devil floated
7.by the time iv done this whole way through house and skimmed ceiling walls should be curred enough to skim i will use either gypsum carlite or thistle multi finish probably later cos it cheaper.

remember this just my theory boys and would appreciate advice on materials and work practise sorry for dragging on aswell
 
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Wouldn't you want to render upto the ceiling boards, it should help prevent cracking in the future.

Before you srart doing a tidy plastering job, make sure he has all his wiring and pipework checked. if the place hasn't had a rewire for a long time he should get it done now, it wont be nice to see all your work chased out in a year or so!
 
hey fellows need some advice a friend just bought a house and ive been tasked with plastering it inside and out. im time served so it wont be a prob but im 21 and only ever worked on new builds with fresh block walls so need few pointers. its an old council house late built 60s all internal walls are brick they just been tracked and that loosned the mortar plus they wernt that straight any way so i recomended he take it all off so im starting from beginning. heres my theory plz correct as u feel nessacery
1. day before i start im gonna rinse all walls by pouring water down them from a watering can or cup. place not floor boarded, downsatirs ceilings aint boarded an electric not on so dont panick.
2. next mornin im goin to mix some scratch at bout 4:1 sand cement with waterproofer and plasticiser good thin stuff
3. before layin it on im goin to damp the wall with brush and water then unibond with slightly watered good sticky stuff.
4. im goin to fill out hollows and staighten scratch to make next coat easier applied
5. after carrying this process out whole way through house probably take few days ill go back to the first room i scratched which should be cured enough and start floating .
6. the floating stuff will be mixed 5:1 sand cement with just plasticiser then straightenen with aluminium edge and devil floated
7.by the time iv done this whole way through house and skimmed ceiling walls should be curred enough to skim i will use either gypsum carlite or thistle multi finish probably later cos it cheaper.

remember this just my theory boys and would appreciate advice on materials and work practise sorry for dragging on aswell
i would take it a room or 2 at a time i wouldn't let the scratch dry out to much, same with the float coat i would only float as much as i can skim the next day, also i wouldent use waterproofer in the scratch coat, is there damp pva' in the house? also i would not pva the walls b4 scratching with thick tacky pva, just damping the walls or using a ratio of pva @ 5-1 or 6-1 should suffice
 
Wouldn't you want to render upto the ceiling boards, it should help prevent cracking in the future.

Before you srart doing a tidy plastering job, make sure he has all his wiring and pipework checked. if the place hasn't had a rewire for a long time he should get it done now, it wont be nice to see all your work chased out in a year or so!

I'd follow this advice - you have easy access now for services . Plastering it once is enough.

Get the ceiling boarded -not just easier for tacking but as said a better job as your plastering will sit up the boards aroud the perimter.

For sand and cement, float the walls first, then skim the ceiling then skim walls - this stops you 'hurting' furnished ceilings with sand and cement.
 
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thats cleared it up for me lads thanxs its just i read that each coat should be cured before the next is applied to stop cracking due to shinkage but i suppose if i scratch a room then apply the floating mortar straight away they will dry together. and dont panick upstairs ceilings borded and pipes/ wiring secure thats why place had been tracked down stairs ceilings will be boarded before i start down there as well thanxs again!!
 
thats cleared it up for me lads thanxs its just i read that each coat should be cured before the next is applied to stop cracking due to shinkage but i suppose if i scratch a room then apply the floating mortar straight away they will dry together. and dont panick upstairs ceilings borded and pipes/ wiring secure thats why place had been tracked down stairs ceilings will be boarded before i start down there as well thanxs again!!
scratch a room or 2 out at a time and float it the next day and then skim it the day after that, tbh though a lot of spreads do away with the scratch coat on internal walls
 
ill definately be givin it a scratch im only a one man band and i hate chasing walls that are drying to quick plus i dont want to be skimmin walls i can rub away with my fingers. what do u think of my mix ratio minus the water proofer is it too strong for brick?
 
You could give one or two walls a tiight scratch coat and then go back over them straight away, or after a cuppa, with a float coat. This will kill the suction slightly but not so much that the wall won't pull in for you.

See if the waterproofer on in it's own will give you a nice mix without the plas. A lot of them do, and some say not to add anything else.

You can use the same mix for this, it's not like two coat work as such, or just throw a couple of extra shovels of sand in for the top coat

As said above, if the wals are okay, you don't need a scratch coat but it makes sense if they are drying in.

The waterproofer will mean that you can carry on floating and not worry about not having it all skimmed , as the suction won't be a problem if walls are left for a few days.

You won't need unibond between coats, the scratch will key. You would be better with multi or board finsih over everything rather than carlite ( not seen carlite for years here!)
 
you need too use chanels metel one that cover the wirers first is this a job your doing on your tod good luck m8te we like pics on here why not use mp75 trowel it on rule it off then devil float it then skim it with 2 coats of miulti finish m8te
is you need a spread tooo help out pm me dude
 
you need too use chanels metel one that cover the wirers first is this a job your doing on your tod good luck m8te we like pics on here why not use mp75 trowel it on rule it off then devil float it then skim it with 2 coats of miulti finish m8te
is you need a spread tooo help out pm me dude
ok now addict me old m8 this ones in befast how you going to get to this one ? got yer private jet handy? :LOL: :LOL:
 
thanx for all advice boys every thing going well and and starting to look the part. how come yous dont use the carlite i got it for the ceilings it goes that slow ill get all upstairs ceilings in one run and that be stilt work outa the way. then use multi for the walls i just came across it last yr only b&q stock it. goes quick to! no need for dope good stuff
 

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