lacquer over oilbased gloss?
- Thread starter shreck
- Start date
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Could you explain more about what you hope to do?
The problem with painting a water based emulsion onto an existing glossy finish is that it might not stick well. We've used a waterbased gloss over lacquered (varnished) doors, and it's OK but rather fragile. If the doors are knocked, the paint flakes off.
If you've painted the table with a matt emulsion, then I'd expect that a gloss lacquer over the top of that would be fine because the matt paint is roungh enough for the lacquer to stick to it well. I don't think that it would matter that the emulsion was water based and the lacquer is oil based.
The problem with painting a water based emulsion onto an existing glossy finish is that it might not stick well. We've used a waterbased gloss over lacquered (varnished) doors, and it's OK but rather fragile. If the doors are knocked, the paint flakes off.
If you've painted the table with a matt emulsion, then I'd expect that a gloss lacquer over the top of that would be fine because the matt paint is roungh enough for the lacquer to stick to it well. I don't think that it would matter that the emulsion was water based and the lacquer is oil based.
HI as I said its a veneer table. I have primed it in a furniture primer then glossed it using a oil based gloss. home base if that makes any difference. and sanded in between coats. now I need a finish that will stand up to the daily abuse a dining table goes through. I read lacquer was the best for duralibily and heat resistance etc.
I am at a loss with the finishes any help is much appreciated x
I am at a loss with the finishes any help is much appreciated x
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I am new to this painting furniture thing.
I read the Polyurethane spray can yellow and I read that poly-acrylic is better but I can't find that. Varnish takes too long to dry and needs something like 5 coats. Where lacquer needs only 2 and drys in a hour or two. I just would like a finish that will withstand 4 small children drinks cleaning knocks and bangs lol if such a thing does exist.
I read the Polyurethane spray can yellow and I read that poly-acrylic is better but I can't find that. Varnish takes too long to dry and needs something like 5 coats. Where lacquer needs only 2 and drys in a hour or two. I just would like a finish that will withstand 4 small children drinks cleaning knocks and bangs lol if such a thing does exist.
Tikkurila do lacquers as well.
Anything oil based will yellow, it depends what colour you've painted the table, it may be that the yellowing won't notice, anyhow it doesn't really matter because you're homebase gloss will yellow anyway
Anything oil based will yellow, it depends what colour you've painted the table, it may be that the yellowing won't notice, anyhow it doesn't really matter because you're homebase gloss will yellow anyway
As DCDEC said, regardless of the lacquer used the OB gloss will yellow, less so if it is bathed in sunlight during the day.
The most durable clear lacquer that I have managed to find is this one (AC2)
It is the only one I have found thus far that is suitable for worktops. Unfortunately it is a two part acid catalyst lacquer that uses isocyanates (which are pretty harmful to breathe in).
I have worktops to restore in a couple of weeks and will be using it but have not used it thus far. Although I intend to spray it on it can be brushed.
Acid cats (when sprayed) are normally touch dry in minutes and can be rocoated after an hour or two, meaning that items can be finished in a day.
Personally I would be willing to brush it outdoors whilst wearing a charcoal filter mask BUT ISOCYANTES CAN TRIGGER ASTHMA (even in people that had not previously had a history of asthma). Most sensible people would not work (spray) with AC without a clean air supply face mask, brushing however is less of a risk because the AC is not being atomised and bouncing off the surface.
Before even considering it, i would contact the supplier for advice. The AC may "eat" the gloss. I have used exterior AC over OB gloss without issue in the past but the gloss was a couple of years old.
To be frank, I would probably recommend sanding the gloss off and using a pigmented (read: white) AC laquer. It will not yellow and wont require a clear protectant coat. I appreciate that you have spent both time and money on applying the gloss but as you are aware it wont stand up to daily use and as DC said, it will yellow.
The most durable clear lacquer that I have managed to find is this one (AC2)
It is the only one I have found thus far that is suitable for worktops. Unfortunately it is a two part acid catalyst lacquer that uses isocyanates (which are pretty harmful to breathe in).
I have worktops to restore in a couple of weeks and will be using it but have not used it thus far. Although I intend to spray it on it can be brushed.
Acid cats (when sprayed) are normally touch dry in minutes and can be rocoated after an hour or two, meaning that items can be finished in a day.
Personally I would be willing to brush it outdoors whilst wearing a charcoal filter mask BUT ISOCYANTES CAN TRIGGER ASTHMA (even in people that had not previously had a history of asthma). Most sensible people would not work (spray) with AC without a clean air supply face mask, brushing however is less of a risk because the AC is not being atomised and bouncing off the surface.
Before even considering it, i would contact the supplier for advice. The AC may "eat" the gloss. I have used exterior AC over OB gloss without issue in the past but the gloss was a couple of years old.
To be frank, I would probably recommend sanding the gloss off and using a pigmented (read: white) AC laquer. It will not yellow and wont require a clear protectant coat. I appreciate that you have spent both time and money on applying the gloss but as you are aware it wont stand up to daily use and as DC said, it will yellow.
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