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Mitre saw damage

E

evdamadiynot

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Through my own carelessness I had a kickback and the fence is now bent backwards by 2-3mm which is a disaster for accuracy.

The motor and gearbox survived unscathed and despite being the thicker end of 20 years old its a solid bit of kit,with wear adjusters included in the design.
Id like to try and repair it.
The fence is a one piece casting secured at each end.
My plan is to scribe the bed to allow accurate refitting then remove it and carefully persuade the casting back true without it snapping.
If it did snap what could be used as a replacement?
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.


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As it's a one piece casting, I would be inclined to gently try and re-align it. It has two chances....I had this on my bosch, and was able to buy a new 1/2 fence.....
 
Thanks-I suppose heating up the casting wont help?
I cant seem to find a replacement on the evolution spares facility -looks like its too prehistoric.
 
If it's going to snap, it'll be in the middle. I see the ends have slotted mounts. If it snaps I think I would be cutting it back and making a new centre section and drilling and tapping to secure it to each side
 
An update.
Upcoming project demands accuracy so Ive looked at the cost of a new saw.

Quickly reverted back to plan A and summoned the courage to attempt a repair.

I took off the fence heated the centre bow with a blowlamp ,put one end in the bench vice and firmly pulled the other.
It didnt snap as expected.
Tried a steel straight edge and burger me it was perfectly true.
It was disturbingly easy -wont take much of a kick to bend it again then?

If that wasnt to good to be true I dropped it back on the deck and nipped up the screws ready for an hour or two of calibration but that was right first time as well.
WTF?
Im going to be paying for this somehow.
 
Probably no need for a new saw, or even a new fence.

You'll need some 18mm hardwood plywood (or better still some 18mm hardwood, but it isn't essential) and a bag of mixed shims/packers. No need for any sticky back plastic (that's for the Blue Peter fans)

Cut yourself a sacrificial fence from 18mm hardwood plywood, the same length, or longer than the existing fences, and the same height or a little higher. Drill the existing metal fences, 2 or more holes, one at either end, to take wood screws. Fix the new plywood fence to the front of the existing metal fence, loosely, screwed through from the back - two outermost holes only at this stage (mind that the screws are short enough to NOT pierce the front face of the plywood). Tighten up the two outermost screws. Now set a long straight edge against the plywood. Apply packers between the metal fence and the back of the plywood where the innermost drilled holes are. Screw through the metal fence and packers into the plywood fence. Check for straightness and add extra packers (or remove) until you have a straight fence. Paper slips will allow you to deal with sub-1mm adjustments to packings. Once all the screws are tight, use the saw to cut through the sacrificial fence. Then zero the saw's mitre angle. This is basically how you overcome a ratty hire shop saw, albeit at the loss of 3/4in of crosscut capacity and a bit of material

It can be useful to make the plywood fence a bit longer than the original metal one. This elongated fence can be used to make repeat cuts by clamping a square ended piece of 3 x 2 CLS, 2 x 1 PSE, etc to it at the desired distance from the blade - cut the first piece freehand then clamp it to the fence and yse it as a length stop to clamp the stop block to the fence at the correct point for the remaining cuts
 
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Thats a n intriguing idea and the payback for losing a bit of throat depth woul d be the opportunity of a longer fence.
Im not sure if the existing fence would survive further abuse so is a good backup plan.
i didnt win the lottery btw
 

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