Potterton Puma 100

[mercury-baggins]

Hi Guys, Its my first time on any forum type site, so I thought I'd give it a try and see if you experts can give me some advice.

I've had my Puma 100 for about 10 years now, and over that time its failed pretty much yearly, and usually around christmas. Now, as its used daily and heavily, I'm not complaining about its reliability etc. Seems its a fact of life.

My question is, should I now replace it or repair it again, and if I should replace it - what with? I have heard that condensing boilers are 40% more efficient than normal boilers, but also seem twice the price - so is there any point buying one when you take into account parts etc?

Since the average part for a boiler failure seems to be £150-200 repair cost, would it be better to buy a normal combi boiler (non-condensing) and just replacing every 5 years or so?

Any advice would be gratefully received...

BTW - the pums's current problem is an interesting one, and hard lesson to learn. The boiler started to only give hot water at full temp. I delayed getting it fixed as I was working away (and family just carried on using it) until the heat burned the fins on the heat exchanger right off!! Now the boiler doesn't stay on for more than 30 secs. I only had the exchanger replaced 18 months ago at a cost of £400!

 

[ChrisR]

Is it an "E"lectronic one or does it have a permanent pilot?

Sounds like the current problem may be a failing pump. They last several years, but less if the system's dirty.
Fans on the E's seem to go on a lot longer than the P's (they're on less), but again usually several years, often 10+.
Diverter valve, maybe 10 years on average
PCB's, a few years, some as long as the boiler, some as little as 2.
Flow switches can stick, as can clogged up pressure switches.
Thermocouples don't last too long, and I've changed a number of gas valves, and overheat stats, plus a few smaller parts as with any boiler.

You will have changed some/all of the above by now. SO there's life in the old broom as long as you change the head and the handle every so often.
You can't buy non-condensing boilers now. We don't really know how well the current crop is going to last. It's up to you to do the sums, but I'd hang on to it for a while yet.

 

[Agile]

Unfortunately you can still buy them and I have been to two newly fitted ones in tenanted property. They just dont meet the buiilding regulations!

Its always cheaper to repair a boiler.

If you dont get problems fixed when they arise its only yourself to blame if further expensive damage is done.

A condensing boiler is only 15%-20% more efficient than your Puma.

Tony

 

[mercury-baggins]

Its a permanent pilot type.

The cost vs efficiancy is my dilema.

I don't believe the hype about recouping costs over 4-5 years as I know all too well from expereince that in most cases it doesn't happen.

I have noticed that quite a few places still offer 'new' non-condensing boilers for sale though not through their shops - I guess they are old unsold stock.

I'm tempted to repair my existing, or buy one of the 'new' non-condensing boilers, as I'm certain that as soon as any boiler is out of warrenty the expensive repairs appear - its sod's law..

 

[ChrisR]

You can only fit non condensing boilers in exceptional circumstances. Otherwise you can be fined heavily. Why would you want to anyway?

 

[baxpoti]

The boiler started to only give hot water at full temp. Now the boiler doesn't stay on for more than 30 secs.

Sounds like a MODulation board problem.

 

[mercury-baggins]

I know you've all probably heard this many times before, but it boils down to cost. I just don't have the money to put in a new condensing boiler at christmas. The non-condensing boilers that I can find are about 1/4 to 1/3 the price.

Anyway, given a choice I would have the puma repaired, as its not been a bad boiler.

The modulation board did spring to mind, as it's been replaced before, but what with the damage to the heat exchanger fins I mentioned before, it looks like I'll need to replace that before I can even think about anything else. I'm guessing that it won't be possible to run the boiler with missing or damaged fins

Someone has given me his old puma heat exchanger and modulator board, but he says the heat exchanger needs to be cleaned chemically to remove deposits, and that it can be done by a good heat engineer.

Do any of you guys know if it would be worth changing any of the sensors, since the boiler seemed to be on all the time and giving scalding water? I'm guessing the sensor are relatively cheap compared to the other parts.

That way I can total up all the likely costs and decide what the best course of action is.

Many thanks

 

[ChrisR]

So you've melted the fins on your SECOND heat exchanger?
Then you've already paid the price of guessing what's wrong with the boiler. You need someone who understands it.

You can't expect us to recommend you install anything, or get installed a boiler illegally.